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Cube 3D printer discussion / Unblocker for Cube ....
« Last post by ROBERTO GEHLEN OLIVEIRA on September 01, 2017, 04:50:52 pm »
Unblocker for Cube 1 & 2 available  on
Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« Last post by chandto on May 17, 2017, 08:54:51 pm »
Congrats on jail breaking and opensourcing the cubex printers.  I'm a disappointed owner of a stock cubex duo and am beginning the journey of converting my printer.  I was wondering if anyone has documented the items needed and steps to perform to get the conversion done.  I would greatly appreciate any documentation that exists or any help for that matter. 

Thanks all for any advice and assistance, I haven't had a chance to read the entire thread so if I've missed what I'm looking for, please just let me know and I'll go back and find it.

All information posted by Prof2meca is false, he is trying to difame me ... he's a criminal
Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: CUBE3DFREE is a fake
« Last post by ROBERTO GEHLEN OLIVEIRA on April 07, 2017, 10:52:16 am »
This comment is false, this guy is posting false information on the net to difame me
Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« Last post by gcurtis79 on March 30, 2017, 02:34:38 am »
I Frankencubed mine as well, with excelent results. I used a dremmel to cut off the portion of the original board with the power/usb/fuse and used it in place to keep things looking nice. I did the same with the portion that had the USB port, as both had nice screw mounts to utilize for this.

I used every stock part, including extruder/hot-end, only replacing the control board with an MKS-BASE 1.0.

The fans had 12v regulators on them already, so running on the original 24v power supply was not a problem. Just make sure you observe and/or test the wires prior to powering them, or you'll blow up the regulators with reverse voltage. (I'll need to replace my cooling fan regulator because I did this.)

I set the stepper drivers with a multimeter on ground, and while touching the positive lead to the driver adjustment screw, I set them all to 2v (I think, I used an analogue multimeter, and I'm not sure if I was reading the scale properly), this made the motors run much quieter, and they don't get too hot.

I used Z-MAX since the limit switch is at the bottom, but MIN plug for both X and Y.

I'm currently using up the remainder of the spool of 1.6mm green it came with, but it will accept 1.75mm filament as well, you just have to remember to change the setting in your slicer.

The original screen is disabled currently and in place only for asthetics, but I plan on getting the 2.8 inch MKS-TFT and possibly the WiFi module, unless I find room for an Octo-Pi.  So far I enjoy that it still looks so clean.

Below you'll find my Marlin v1.1.0 RC8 Configuration.h, Slic3r config export, and CuraEngine config export. I've done a couple test prints with slicer, and a 'parts fit' test with cura, and the parts slid together whith little to no effort.

Edits for spelling and info aditions. Photos to come.
Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Last post by pugiyac on March 18, 2017, 10:02:27 am »
Hi i just want to share the way i used in order to be able using 1.75mm bulk filament:
Before that every second print i had to tighten the screw that holds the stepper counter - after
doing those steps i had more that 70-80 hours of printing without any problem..

I disassembled the print head cover and released  fan+ light sensor screws.
took out the pulley (black and white circle) and grind small amount of metal from it (see pic 1).
then i noticed the pulley has a small bulge on the back side which fits exactly to it place every time you tight the nut back.
Therefore, every time you will tighten the screw to the pulley will be aligned to factory setting and not to 1.75m - and that we don't want !
so, i grinded the hole  that which the bulge fits into (the socket on the chase of the print head) then i had free space  to determine how
the pulley will be.

Now everything working just right, without any need to tight the bolts.  8)

you don't need an expensive device to hack your cube printer in order to use bulk filament (read the first post).
Just use "Crap hack" steps easy. the guy that sales those chips should consider lower to price.
paying for the "hack device" more then 15$ is a really bad joke..
Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: Cube 2 Not heating - Fan not working
« Last post by dingolingo on February 23, 2017, 03:33:22 pm »
Hmm I have tried this. shorted the two wires together, now when I try to get the print head heated up, the fan works for a few seconds then stops and the head does not get hot.

Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: Ramps Upgrade to a gen 1 cube
« Last post by dingolingo on February 23, 2017, 02:44:57 pm »
Well my inexpensive upgrade of the cube just took a $200 Hit. I toasted my extruder... didn't realize the fan was not spinning.... Live and learn...

Trying to see if the extruder would get to temp on 12V without a fan is a BAD idea.

Eeeek! you killed a $2.50 thermal fuse.  Just bypass it (short the cables leading to and from). You'll find it wrapped around the hotend.  If the thermal fuse blows due to excessive heat, the hotend gets no power.  I did exactly the same thing.  Marlin firmware does have a failsafe against this anyway.

total printing noob here dan.. but where is the thermal fuse? I think I blew mine
Cube 3D printer discussion / Don't pay anithing to CUBE3DFREE
« Last post by prof2meca on February 20, 2017, 03:34:25 pm »
This seller is a liar, and you will have problem with him !!!!

Be careful

If you want more information, contact me prof2meca AT
Cube 3D printer discussion / CUBE3DFREE is a fake
« Last post by prof2meca on February 20, 2017, 03:00:30 am »
don't buy to this seller

the cards don't work

he is a thief that is knwed in web

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