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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: My Cube 3D 2nd Gen Upgrade
« on: April 25, 2016, 03:06:50 am »
I will see what I can do.
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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: My Cube 3D 2nd Gen Upgrade
« on: March 25, 2016, 11:14:34 am »
Further to this build, here are the specs:
Firmware: Marlin 1.1.0.
Build volume: 140x140x146.
Hot End: Up to 290 degrees C. I have installed a 70 degree C fuse to the fins of the hot end.
Movement speed: up to 300 mm/s (X and Y), up to 25mm/s (Z), up to 60mm/s (Extruder).
Quality: 0.1 to 0.32 mm layers.
Materials: Mainly PLA. ABS can be used for small parts. I have yet to try Nylon.
The print quality is excellent, and I find painters blue tape is the best thing to use on the build plate.
I will probably sell the unit now, as I now have an XYZ Pro 1.0 printer.
Firmware: Marlin 1.1.0.
Build volume: 140x140x146.
Hot End: Up to 290 degrees C. I have installed a 70 degree C fuse to the fins of the hot end.
Movement speed: up to 300 mm/s (X and Y), up to 25mm/s (Z), up to 60mm/s (Extruder).
Quality: 0.1 to 0.32 mm layers.
Materials: Mainly PLA. ABS can be used for small parts. I have yet to try Nylon.
The print quality is excellent, and I find painters blue tape is the best thing to use on the build plate.
I will probably sell the unit now, as I now have an XYZ Pro 1.0 printer.
3
Cube 3D printer discussion / Finished.
« on: March 25, 2016, 10:50:11 am »
After sitting with the printer half finished for some months, I put some time in, and completed the build.
And here it is.
The finishing touches were to blank off the original holes; add a switch to the front; screw the Ramps LCD to where the cube cartridges used to go; fit the extruder stepper to the side; and add a spool holder.
The last thing I did was to level the bed accurately.
What a think go beauty it is, now. It looks similar to the UP Plus 2 printer.
It also sits nice and neat next to my computer. Not something I could do with my new XYZ printer - that takes up 0.5m cubed!
This printer was instrumental in my learning about 3D printing, and what I wanted out of one.
And here it is.
The finishing touches were to blank off the original holes; add a switch to the front; screw the Ramps LCD to where the cube cartridges used to go; fit the extruder stepper to the side; and add a spool holder.
The last thing I did was to level the bed accurately.
What a think go beauty it is, now. It looks similar to the UP Plus 2 printer.
It also sits nice and neat next to my computer. Not something I could do with my new XYZ printer - that takes up 0.5m cubed!
This printer was instrumental in my learning about 3D printing, and what I wanted out of one.
4
Cube 3D printer discussion / Hot End Replacement
« on: March 25, 2016, 10:39:45 am »
The whole point of me doing this was the the hot end on my machine broke (well, I broke it).
I designed and printed a custom holder for a HEX AO and fan, and here is the result.
Most of the original metal mounting was removed, leaving enough for me to screw this mount to.
The extruder is now a bowden setup, as it was easier to do.
I designed and printed a custom holder for a HEX AO and fan, and here is the result.
Most of the original metal mounting was removed, leaving enough for me to screw this mount to.
The extruder is now a bowden setup, as it was easier to do.
5
Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: My Cube 3D 2nd Gen Upgrade
« on: March 25, 2016, 10:35:28 am »
The Ramps board was just hot glued into place.
I designed and printed a replacement power socket holder, and screwed that into place.
The normal 12V input is run at 24V (D1 is removed), and the bed input is run at 12V from a BUK board. The BUK also supplies 12V to the Arduino via the power socket on the board.
I build a simple FET switch, running off the 24V supply, and connected the input to pin57 to run the case fan when the stepper motors are enabled. This means the machine is totally quiet when idling.
The hot end fan only runs when the nozzle is 30 degrees C or hotter.
I wired up a long IDC connector so that the cube's control cables would just plug in to this, and I soldered 4-pin connectors to the appropriate pins on the IDC. This is the hardest part, as it's not just pin1 to pin1, etc. However, it is easy enough to work out.
I designed and printed a replacement power socket holder, and screwed that into place.
The normal 12V input is run at 24V (D1 is removed), and the bed input is run at 12V from a BUK board. The BUK also supplies 12V to the Arduino via the power socket on the board.
I build a simple FET switch, running off the 24V supply, and connected the input to pin57 to run the case fan when the stepper motors are enabled. This means the machine is totally quiet when idling.
The hot end fan only runs when the nozzle is 30 degrees C or hotter.
I wired up a long IDC connector so that the cube's control cables would just plug in to this, and I soldered 4-pin connectors to the appropriate pins on the IDC. This is the hardest part, as it's not just pin1 to pin1, etc. However, it is easy enough to work out.
6
Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: My Cube 3D 2nd Gen Upgrade
« on: December 05, 2015, 09:55:28 am »
I'm not sure I can do a full tutorial.
However, I can run through what I had to do to get my printer to this state.
First things first. Remove the screws from underneath. Four short ones hold the top case, and three longer ones at the back hold the vertical steel frame.
Gently lay it out on the bench, and separate the top cover by disconnecting the ribbon cable attached to the main board.
Then pull the four plugs from the front of the motherboard, and unscrew the main board from the bottom case, including the earth wires screwed to the main board near the power socket.
The last picture shows the printer standing up (if you do this, fit the center screw at the back to hold the steel frame upright, and tie the z axis to the top of the x axis) with the main board removed.
That's the easy bit.
Next comes the fitting of the replacement RAMPS board, and wiring it all up...
However, I can run through what I had to do to get my printer to this state.
First things first. Remove the screws from underneath. Four short ones hold the top case, and three longer ones at the back hold the vertical steel frame.
Gently lay it out on the bench, and separate the top cover by disconnecting the ribbon cable attached to the main board.
Then pull the four plugs from the front of the motherboard, and unscrew the main board from the bottom case, including the earth wires screwed to the main board near the power socket.
The last picture shows the printer standing up (if you do this, fit the center screw at the back to hold the steel frame upright, and tie the z axis to the top of the x axis) with the main board removed.
That's the easy bit.
Next comes the fitting of the replacement RAMPS board, and wiring it all up...
7
Cube 3D printer discussion / My Cube 3D 2nd Gen Upgrade
« on: November 05, 2015, 09:24:23 am »
I thought I'd share how I upgraded my Cube3D 2nd Generation 3D printer.
My first foray into 3D printing was almost dashed when I bought this Cube printer on eBay.
I was seduced by the size and looks of the machine. Compared to the leviathans I had been looking at, this one could actually sit on my desk and look at home with my iMac. After my first few prints, my hopes were dashed, as the results were very hit-and-miss.
I could have just sold the printer on, but as I liked the size and look of the printer, I decided to follow the lead, and install new electronics and marlin firmware, in the hope that I could make the printer do as it should, and with a reasonable quality.
Here is a picture of the results of my labour.
Currently, the printer can be connected to using bluetooth, and the SD card option is available through the LCD screen.
I'm not convinced with the Bluetooth connection, as sometimes the printer cannot receive commands quick enough, and the printer will "stutter".
My latest plans are to remove the bluetooth and screen, and install a Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint. I am testing this option now.
Here is a photo of the original and updated printer. In future posts, I will show how I did the upgrade, and will make the modified Marlin software I use available.
My first foray into 3D printing was almost dashed when I bought this Cube printer on eBay.
I was seduced by the size and looks of the machine. Compared to the leviathans I had been looking at, this one could actually sit on my desk and look at home with my iMac. After my first few prints, my hopes were dashed, as the results were very hit-and-miss.
I could have just sold the printer on, but as I liked the size and look of the printer, I decided to follow the lead, and install new electronics and marlin firmware, in the hope that I could make the printer do as it should, and with a reasonable quality.
Here is a picture of the results of my labour.
Currently, the printer can be connected to using bluetooth, and the SD card option is available through the LCD screen.
I'm not convinced with the Bluetooth connection, as sometimes the printer cannot receive commands quick enough, and the printer will "stutter".
My latest plans are to remove the bluetooth and screen, and install a Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint. I am testing this option now.
Here is a photo of the original and updated printer. In future posts, I will show how I did the upgrade, and will make the modified Marlin software I use available.
8
Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: November 05, 2015, 06:15:45 am »
I will post my build on a separate thread, shortly.
9
Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: October 06, 2015, 08:01:32 am »
Mine is all done now. Just need to tune it.
Here is a pic of the finished item.
I damaged the nozzle after reaming it out after a bad blockage, and so replaced it with a HEX extruder.
I also managed to get it to fit in the original location, and with minor modification, the extruder cover also fits.
The PSU is the original one. I am using all 24v, with the exception of the extruder fan (original) and arduino.
these are run off a 12V BUCK convertor).
Very quiet when not in use (and I don't mean off). The case fan is on when motors are running, and 2 mins after.
Extruder fan is on when temp is >35 degrees.
Oh, and it all Bluetooth or SD card printing. No USB in sight!
I have yet to complete the tuning of speed and velocities for good printing, but I am happy with the results.
Here is a pic of the finished item.
I damaged the nozzle after reaming it out after a bad blockage, and so replaced it with a HEX extruder.
I also managed to get it to fit in the original location, and with minor modification, the extruder cover also fits.
The PSU is the original one. I am using all 24v, with the exception of the extruder fan (original) and arduino.
these are run off a 12V BUCK convertor).
Very quiet when not in use (and I don't mean off). The case fan is on when motors are running, and 2 mins after.
Extruder fan is on when temp is >35 degrees.
Oh, and it all Bluetooth or SD card printing. No USB in sight!
I have yet to complete the tuning of speed and velocities for good printing, but I am happy with the results.
10
Cube 3D printer discussion / My FrankenCube
« on: September 12, 2015, 04:58:22 pm »
I have taken the plunge and replaced the electronics in my Cube3D 2nd Gen.
I have, however, made most all the changes reversible, so that I can revert back to the original design if required.
I am running 24v, and intend to use the original PSU. My plan is to use a Buck 24v voltage convertor to power the CPU.
For now, here's a picture of the current state of the unit.
Ramps is running on 24v. Mega is using 5v from USB, although I will use the Buck voltage convertor to supply the 5V when I am happy with the machine, and want to run it standalone.
Case fan is run from 24v and is on permanently.
Extruder fan is running off PWM (D10) (removed 7812 reg and set PWM to give about 13v) and is auto started when extruder is >50 degrees.
Bed cooling fans (the 3 at the rear) are also on PWM (D9).
Extruder is on D8, and can easily reach the required temperatures very quickly.
Most things work fine, although I have some issues to sort out.
1. The Y axis suffers from false endstop triggering when homing.
2. The Z axis seems to home a few millimetres above the natural rest of the plate, and crashes down when the steppers are disabled (on idle, for example).
3. I need to work out how to do those things that were automated for me with the cube standard hardware (load/unload filament, set nozzle/plate gap).
To complete the build, I need to make a blanking plate for the original LCD location; make a box for the new LCD; make a blanking plate for the rear of the unit (where the USB and power cables exit); and get a power socket compatible with the original PSU.
I may also have to tweak the software to get it to work exactly as I want (ex, item 2 above).
I have yet to try making something, but it will probably be some test objects.
I have, however, made most all the changes reversible, so that I can revert back to the original design if required.
I am running 24v, and intend to use the original PSU. My plan is to use a Buck 24v voltage convertor to power the CPU.
For now, here's a picture of the current state of the unit.
Ramps is running on 24v. Mega is using 5v from USB, although I will use the Buck voltage convertor to supply the 5V when I am happy with the machine, and want to run it standalone.
Case fan is run from 24v and is on permanently.
Extruder fan is running off PWM (D10) (removed 7812 reg and set PWM to give about 13v) and is auto started when extruder is >50 degrees.
Bed cooling fans (the 3 at the rear) are also on PWM (D9).
Extruder is on D8, and can easily reach the required temperatures very quickly.
Most things work fine, although I have some issues to sort out.
1. The Y axis suffers from false endstop triggering when homing.
2. The Z axis seems to home a few millimetres above the natural rest of the plate, and crashes down when the steppers are disabled (on idle, for example).
3. I need to work out how to do those things that were automated for me with the cube standard hardware (load/unload filament, set nozzle/plate gap).
To complete the build, I need to make a blanking plate for the original LCD location; make a box for the new LCD; make a blanking plate for the rear of the unit (where the USB and power cables exit); and get a power socket compatible with the original PSU.
I may also have to tweak the software to get it to work exactly as I want (ex, item 2 above).
I have yet to try making something, but it will probably be some test objects.
11
Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: cubify cube cartridge hack :(
« on: August 29, 2015, 05:33:00 pm »
I have heard that an 8V Zener diode across the terminals will allow the Cube to read the cartridge chip, but prevent it from writing to it.
I have yet to confirm this, but will be trying it soon.
Oh, and it's version 2.00 that is required for the "hack" to work. See other posts here to get the firmware.
I have yet to confirm this, but will be trying it soon.
Oh, and it's version 2.00 that is required for the "hack" to work. See other posts here to get the firmware.
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