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Messages - spegelius

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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: Cura and Cube 2
« on: January 09, 2017, 12:02:24 pm »
Quote from: ramsey on January 05, 2017, 06:55:17 pm
Thank you for posting these instructions!  They were really helpful.  I've been reading a lot of your posts and really appreciate that you've shared so many of your experiences.

Was gifted an old Cube 2 recently, and have been pretty frustrated with the results so far.  This is my first 3D printer although I've done plenty of CAD, had parts 3D printed, done CNC work, and know Python.  So I feel well armed to try and make your solution work.  I ended up going with Cura because a friend recommended it.

Anyway, I had a fair amount of issues getting this to work with your procedure but I think I have something figured out now. 

So I had a few issues I think:
- I can't access the version of CodeX you linked to.  Found two versions floating around.  One written in C, which may or may not work, and what I think is the original CodeX64.exe (on Google Code).
- I initially started with Cura 2.3.  Now downgraded to 15.04.  However, I think the main issue is that I didn't ahve the machine setting correctly set up.  Your profile I guess only covers print settings.

Anyway, for Cube 2, Cura Machine Settings (at least for 15.04) are:
max width/height/depth are all 140mm.  (I think this was my main problem!)
Machine center is 0,0.
I had success telling it to use BfB as the "GCode Flavor".

So as sit watching my first Cura print come out, I will start tinkering and see if I can get this all to work in the new version of Cura, and post what I figure out.

I'm so happy with the results so far, and while I still have some clear print optimization to do, at least now I have a chance of doing it!

Good to hear it's working. Yes, machine settings seem to be missing from the profiles, but you already got the main things correct:
- build area is 140x140x140 (actually something like 142x142x140...)
- Machine center 0,0
- BFB  style

Good thing there's still Codex available in internet somewhere. The Google code version should be the one that's the original, I believe here: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/kisslicer-refugee-camp/ZMuIrtn5Mfo

If you want to test other slicers, Slic3r and Simplify3D are also supported. There's profiles for those slicers in github, but it's been a while since I made...

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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: Cura and Cube 2
« on: December 29, 2016, 05:00:43 am »
I added PLA profile for Cura in github. It changes the temperature to 220 and start.gcode Type value to 1. Cura's profile settings are bit weird, apparently you need to load the profile you want to use every time you want to change it. I expected that loading a profile would add new machine... well I think the best option would be to add 2 machines in Cura, Cube ABS and Cube PLA and then load respective profiles to those machines

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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: Cura and Cube 2
« on: December 28, 2016, 08:03:41 am »
I had actually forgotten how tedious it is to get a print going with Cube2... nowadays my FrankenCube is controlled with Octoprint so I don't even have to be in same room. Still, I hope this helps people who have original Cube 2 printers, they do quite good job with proper settings.

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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: Cura and Cube 2
« on: December 28, 2016, 07:54:22 am »
I got a question about the whole procedure, so here goes. I haven't used real Cube 2 for a while since converting to RAMPS (FrankenCube), but I think I remember how it goes. Note that this mainly meant for Windows due to need to run CodeX64.exe. Linux/OSX works, but you need to manually run the CodeX portion in some Windows environment


Notes:
- the default profile is for ABS (temperature 260C). For PLA, lower this to 220C or so (Cube's actual nozzle temp is somewhat lower that what the settings is. On my Cube2 , 220 was actually 198-208 as the temperature fluctuated ~10C)
- Tune the flow with printing a hollow cube. There are instructions for this, but basically the cube should have ~0.5mm walls after print when the flow % is spot on. Some say that tuning is needed every time changing to different type/brand filament, but personally I did it only when switching from Cube filament to bulk and vice versa.


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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: November 12, 2016, 09:27:38 am »
Quote from: JAMTX on October 22, 2016, 01:44:01 pm
Greetings Everyone!

You all have been extremely helpful in getting my frankencube setup from a cube 2nd gen. I am trying to setup a direct drive for the extruder. I am currently using a J head hot end direct feed (https://www.amazon.com/3D-CAM-Printer-Filament-Extruder/dp/B010MZ8RKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477161693&sr=8-1&keywords=hotend)

Any tips on existing direct drives extruder mounts on thingiverse that I could print on my other 3D printer?

Thanks for any tips and for all the help you have provided already!  ;D



I dont think there's any direct drive extruders that would fit Cube 2 directly. Cube 2 has it's own kind of X-arm that's probably not meant to adhere to any existing design. So the only option is to pick a extruder design and modify it to fit Cube. Or design one yourself :).

I designed this E3Dv6 mount for Cube 2, but it's bowden: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1886522. Currently it attaches to the metal arm that is attached to the rail. I've been thinking that the metal arm could be removed if something bigger is needed. But current setup works fine and I'm in no need for direct drive extruder, so not going to be changing things any time soon.

For extruder i use this: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:242182. Very reliable so far.


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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: August 07, 2016, 04:04:50 am »
Quote from: BillyTheGoat on August 06, 2016, 04:27:42 pm
@spegelius, I don't know much about power supplies other than voltage. What else should I be looking for to make sure that it will able to run my hotend and an additionally heated bed?

After you help me figure out which power supply I need from ebay, I'll be adding it to my order of terminal crimps and ramps board.

I'm hoping to start on this project before the end of the month depending on when everything gets here from China.

Anything else you can thing of that I might need so everything can arrive on time? Anything I can to prepare while I'm waiting for the parts to come.

Thanks again for all you help. If we can get this up and running I will be so happy. Next I'll just have to get better at 3D Modeling.

So Excited to make this happen. 

If you don't have ATX power supply to use, something like this would be a good choice: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-5-12-24V-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-for-LED-Strip-3D-Printer-/111544566393?var=&hash=item19f8930279:m:mgXbKNkedYP0vXZS6rgAhtw. Select at least 200W model if you are going to be using heated bed. If not, 100W or 150W should do fine. Do a search for '12V power supply' in Amazon or Ebay, there's lot's of options for brands. Needles to say, the cheaper ones might not be as robust as the more expensive (better) brands.
I don't have any experience of that type of power supply, i've used ATX type because i have some old ones that I put to use.  But i've seen them being used in 3D printers and basically any 12V power supply will do as long as it outputs enough power.
Also with ATX power supply there's the option of turning the power supply on and off in Marlin, but I haven't used that system yet.

For other bits on bobs: I suggest ordering a RepRapDiscount Full LCD controller with the RAMPS. Has SD card slot so printer can be used without PC. Shouldn't cost much, i think i got a RAMPS+Full LCD less than 50eur last time i ordered from Amazon...

Other stuff:  I have a good set of assorted tools that I use when fixing stuff etc. so it's hard to say exactly what to buy. But generally if you have hw store nearby and find that you need some tool, then it won't be a problem.

If you can print parts now, wouldn't hurt printing them beforehand. These are what i've printed (not necessarily for Cube, i've got other printer projects going on):
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:861360
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1223730
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:737701
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6599
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:87250
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:217253

There's also some parts i've designed myself, i'll post them someday...


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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: July 20, 2016, 04:36:09 pm »
Quote from: BillyTheGoat on July 20, 2016, 02:56:20 pm
After looking through all 7 pages I haven't seen a complete list of components considering the different builds people have been using. Before I finalize my list and purchases I was hope to get some questions answered to help with my build. I already have a multimeter and a soldering iron hence why they aren't on the list but please feel free to make suggestions of things I have forgotten that you deem important.

I want to say thanks in advance for any and all help offered during this learning process.


Component Related Questions
  • Should I get getting a 12v power supply or stick with the original power supply?
  • Do I need separate power supplies for electronics and for the fans?
  • How many fans do I need and what should they be focused on cooling?
  • How have people over come the 20v limitation of the Mega? and is it still a relevant issue?
  • Is it more cost effective to use a converter over another power supply?
  • Should I upgrade the stepper drivers? If yes, to what?


  • I'm using 12V, simply because i have few old ATX PSUs around that work ok and other components are generally meant for 12V. RAMPS can also control when the PSU is on, although i haven't used that feature yet. Probably in future
  • I don't. But i'm using only one of Cube's original fans and that's 12V fan (the one blowing to the hotend, it has somekind of voltage regulator which I removed). You can use 24V fans @12V, they'll just run slower
  • I have 3 at the moment: one for RAMPS, one for hotend and one attached to the cooling duct i printed, to help with printing PLA
  • Don't think so, but not relevant to me as i'm using 12V anyways
  • Well buck converter costs less than 10 euro, ordered from ebay so yes if it can supply the power needed.
  • You mean upgrade A4988 to something like DRV8825? Don't know, apparently DRV8825 has more microsteps or something so maybe better accuracy... haven't tried them, though

Quote from: BillyTheGoat on July 20, 2016, 02:56:20 pm
Other Questions
  • I plan on get a hotend that works with more exotic filaments. Will this effect the power supply I purchase?
  • Does adding a heated platform effect my power supply?
  • What software do you use with you frakenCube and why? Paid or Free?
  • What are the settings you recommend for the printer?
  • Which custom firmware is currently being recommended?
  • @Spegelius, Did you use the cube to print with Filaflex or another printer? If Cube, what was your settings?

  • Usually no, but i guess this depends on the heating element on the hotend... I think they usually are similar regards the power requirements
  • Yes, you need ~10-20 amps more power, depending on the heating element. I ordered this few days ago: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271874692313 and now i need aluminum plate. That 180W means it'll draw 15A from 12V so PSU needs to be able to provide that + hotend amps (3-5 I think)
  • Simplify3D (paid), monstly because of the support configurability. Slic3r works fine too, but as you can't manually control supports or support parameters, some models don't work well with it. Also Simplify3D supports are easier to remove IMO
  • Hmm that's a wide question. I'll post my Simplify3D settings later in more detail
  • I'm using Marlin and it's working fine. Also that's the only firmware i've tried, Repetier would be interesting alternative to try at some point
  • Yes, Cube, when it was more in it's original form. Very slow (10mm/s max speed) but it worked. I haven't had time to try with current setup, but the Airtrippers extruder will be a problem with flexibles and i'm going to print different extruder

Quote from: BillyTheGoat on July 20, 2016, 02:56:20 pm
My Draft Theoretical BOM List
  • 1x Mega 2560 Adruino Board
  • 4x Stepper Drivers A4988
  • 1x RAMPS 1.4
  • 1x Pack of 100 Dupont 2.55mm Wire Terminals
  • 1x Pack of 4 pin Dupont Termal Housing (You can cut these in half if you need to make 2 pin housings)
  • 1x v6 HotEnd http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Bowden
  • 1x AirTrippers Bowden Extruder (Any version - this is printable and will require a Nema 17 Motor. Make sure you print it BEFORE dismantling your Cube)
  • 1x Nema 17 high current Motor.  There are different types - get one that has high current - this is VERY important.  I got mine from Josh at Cultivate 3d in Australia
  • 1x Dupont Crimper (Not necessary, but makes the job much easier)
  • 1x 12v Power Supply [I'm not sure if this is what I want to use]
  • Zip ties


Good list, but i'd change these:
- with 12V supply some 12V fans might be needed
- Airtrippers extruder is only one option, thingiverse has many good extruders even for flexible materials. Like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:711401
- E3D V6 hotend (or any other hotend) replacing Cube's own will need some kind of attachment to the X arm, Dan's hackish way probably won't work with E3D V6 or J-HEAD that i'm using. I have one printable version that i've been using with JHead for months now, but i'm going to upgrade it to support E3D too sometime.
- some 4mm bowden tube in case the hotend doesn't have it in the package

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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: July 08, 2016, 12:01:50 pm »
I've been tuning Marlin configuration, latest changes are in github.

I enabled Babysteps which is an option during printing where it's possible to do minor adjustments to Z, Y and Z axes.

I also enabled manual mesh bed leveling, but haven't used it yet because it doesn't understand that in Cube the bed should be rised near the nozzle, the bed is left at bottom and it's hard to measure the distance. Anyway the option seems to be similar to Cube's leveling option, but apparently Marlin uses the leveling values during print for leveling, like with autolevel feature.

I also ran PID autotune, which gave me new PID values and now hotend temps seem to be bit more stable.

One of the things i tried was increasing the acceleration values, but it seems that Cube is real bad at that. In one of the guides, a starting value of 3000 was suggested, but at least my Cube cannot do more than 500, Y axis skips steps (a lot) at some point, which ruins the print as Y coords move several cm...

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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: July 02, 2016, 01:34:21 pm »
Great! To get the print to the middle, the point of origin (x=0,y=0) needs to be same in Marlin and the slicer you are using. If you use same Marlin config as i do, the origin is in bottom left (home) position. Just confiure the slicing sw to have origin at 0,0.

I'm thinking about changing the origin to the center of the plate because setting z-gap is harder when the nozzle is at the corner. Not a big problem, it's fine now so haven't done anything yet...

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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: June 24, 2016, 10:04:55 am »
I don't remember what i had to reverse, just try it, doesn't hurt.

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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: June 21, 2016, 01:51:41 am »
The speed settings for X,Y and Z are at the top of the screen, at least on my Pronterface version (don't remember what).

The steps per unit setting tunes how much the stepper has to step the reach certain length, not how fast. The speed setting tells the stepper how fast to step. Different settings.

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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: June 20, 2016, 12:52:34 am »
Quote from: soso2 on June 19, 2016, 10:57:43 am
Your right, I had my end stop x-min y-min z-min,  Will this stop my z axis from raising the print bed 100mph?  z axis is super fast, almost broke my bed. I took the bed off for now, until I get this right..
 I'm sorry to be asking you so many questions, I am also googling a lot of info as well.
Thank you again

No problem, i'll answer the best i can.
I'm not sure if changing the z endstop fixes that, but shouldn't hurt to try it? Seems strange to me that z is moving so fast. On myp rinter, it's really slow when moving in Pronterface or in LCD controller. What is your speed setting in Pronterface?

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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: June 19, 2016, 04:27:57 am »
Quote from: soso2 on June 18, 2016, 05:52:20 pm
I just tried it, I don't understand, why my x, y, z, axis are only going in one direction, if I try the other direction, pronterface says endstop hit.. I also tried to raise my Z axis up 10mm and it went so fast all the way to the top, and kept trying to go..  You are saying you are getting good prints with these setting??
 I don't understand what im doing, wrong.. 

Hmm it seems to me that your endstops aren't wired correctly. I put them to the tip pins shown in here: http://www.reprap.org/mediawiki/images/0/06/RAMPS_dossier.pdf; xmin, ymin and zmax.

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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: June 18, 2016, 10:45:19 am »
Did you pull the latest version of the configuration? I made a new commit that moves the origin to the corner, which should allow you to move it freely

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Cube 3D printer discussion / Re: FrankenCube v0.1 Its ALIVE!!!
« on: June 18, 2016, 09:06:45 am »
Quote from: soso2 on June 17, 2016, 03:08:07 pm

 Thanks spegelius, I got my ramps to work with your marlin Rc..  But I have to ask you something, when I try to move my X axis to the Left going towards the end stop, Pronterface says endstops hit:  X:2.99   The X axis will move to Right no problem, but when I try to move it back to the endstop, it wont let me, is this normal?
Also when I hit Y+ the bed moves forward, but when I try Y- the bed wont go back to the endstop, is this normal??
 Can you tell me does the  X,axis  control the extruder  from left to right?, and the Y controls the print bed going forward and back?,  is this right?

Yes, X is left to right and Y is forward and back.

What is your X and Y position after homing them? When i had bed 0,0,0 position set to bed center (BED_CENTER_AT_0_0), X and Y where showing -71 on the LCD screen. Now that i've commented out BED_CENTER_AT_0_0, X and Y are 0 after homing.

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