Cube 3D printer community
General Category => Cube 3D printer discussion => Topic started by: Dan on November 20, 2014, 04:12:22 am
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Hi Folks,
As promised, here is my instructional for the the project I've dubbed FrankenCube. Basically, Im in the process of ripping out the guts of my Cube 2 (although these hacks will work with any Cube) and turning it into a printing monster with the Merlin Firmware, running on a Mega2560 Arduino with Ramps 1.4. Im still working on this instructional, so be prepared for changes to be made as I figure stuff out myself.
So why am I doing this? Basically I got so sick of the predictable average and slow prints the Cube 2 puts out. One thing I've noticed with the Cube is the lack of options available. 3D Systems seem to have taken a one size fits all approach to 3D printing... so while this works for many objects, it certainly doesnt work for all. Being able to adjust print speed, retraction to prevent filament hairs, use way different filaments (like wood filament), change the print head, layer height etc is just scratching the surface of the funcationality I plan on getting out of this baby. If you're after a full feature list, check out Slic3r, the equivalent to cubes propriety software.. Just have a poke around and check out how many different ways you can manipulate the printout. The feature list is awesome - and thats why im doing this.
OK so lets get into it.
You will need
1x Mega 2560 Adruino Board, -$10
4x Stepper Drivers A4988 -$12
1x RAMPS 1.4 -$10
1x Pack of 100 Dupont 2.55mm Wire Terminals $5
1x Pack of 4 pin Dupont Termal Housing (You can cut these in half if you need to make 2 pin housings). $5
1x Soldering Iron for some very basic soldering $5-500
1x Multimeter with Resistance and Continuity Beeper $5-$500
1x Roll of lead free Solder $5
1x No Clean Flux Pen $5
1x Small Brain inc. patience $5
1x Screw Driver
1x Set of Hex Drivers
1x Merlin Hotend (Purchased from eBay)
1x AirTrippers Bowden Extruder (Any version - this is printable and will require a Nema 17 Motor. Make sure you print it BEFORE dismantling your Cube)
1x Nema 17 high current Motor. There are different types - get one that has high current - this is VERY important. I got mine from Josh at Cultivate 3d in Australia www.cultivate3d.com
1x Dupont Crimper (Not necessary, but makes the job much easier).
1x 12v Power Supply (Im using a modified computer power supply)
https://www.google.com.au/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1AVSA_enAU453AU453&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=how%20to%20make%20a%2012v%20power%20supply%20from%20a%20computer%20power%20supply (https://www.google.com.au/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1AVSA_enAU453AU453&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=how%20to%20make%20a%2012v%20power%20supply%20from%20a%20computer%20power%20supply)
OK So now we've got our shopping list out of the way, the next thing you will need is an afternoon or two.
Overview
Half the work is already done for us by 3D Systems as we are only working on the motherboard end of this unit. We will however have to unscrew all the covers on this thing in order to verify (preferably with a multimeter) which cable leads to what. What we're going to do is cut off all the cables on the motherboard end of the printer and leave the other ends in place. As we identify and cut the cables, we will tag and name each set of cables to ensure we plug them into the correct place on our RAMPS 1.4 board. With all that Arduino hardware -- Basically, our A4988 Drivers plug into the RAMPS board in 4 of the 5 driver positions (Danger DONT DO THIS YET!!!), then our RAMPS Plugs into the arduino, we screw exposed wires in to the power connector from our power supply then plug all the bits and pieces we labeled and terminated from our Cube 3D printer earlier.
Sound simple? Yeah.
- OK SO start by removing all visible screws from the case of your Cube 2, start at the bottom, and remove the motherboard tray from the rest of the cube.
- Unscrew and remove the hotend cover
- Lift the top off the motherboard tray but be careful, the LCD is connected via a ribbon cable. Disconnect it from the motherboard, then disconnect all other cables from the motherboard
(http://googledrive.com/host/0B5QC7YgUeEEqOWlnaTJob2hHT2s/WP_20141119_012.jpg) - Remove the screws from the back of the cubes Z axis and remove the back cover
- Remove the screws from the back of the X axis and remove the back cover. When you remove it, disconnect the 3 fans from the wiring lume by pinching the connector.
- Remove the 2 screws from the underside of the Y axis and wiggle the bottom cover plate out of position.
- Remove all screws holding the motherboard in position and vigorously remove and discard the motherboard (or keep it for parts... those voltage regs may come in handy later if you make a mistake with your wiring).
- Now using a Multimeter to check continuity, you need to identify wiring, cut at the motherboard end, re-terminate using dupont connectors the following of your wires on your Cube. Be sure when re-terminating these wires that you match the colour sequence on the other end of your device. THis is particularly important for the 4x Motors, almost everything else are 2 pin cables.
- Identify, Cut and Tag wires for the following
X Motor
Y Motor
Z Motor
Extruder Motor
X End Stop
Y Endstop
Z Endstop
Thermistor (Purple wires leading into the top of the hotend nozzle)
Heater wires (thicker white wires leading to the coil around the nozzle)
All Fan Wires (Mark them according to what they cool ie. Extruder Fan, X Fan, y fan, motherboard fan etc.) - YOU DONT NEED TO TERMINATE THESE WIRES, JUST STRIP THEM
(http://googledrive.com/host/0B5QC7YgUeEEqOWlnaTJob2hHT2s/WP_20141120_001.jpg) - Note - there are 3 wires we are NOT going to use in this project which come from the movement sensor on the extruder... THey tell the Cube when you have a Filament Flow Fail. (Unnecessary) - Identify these wires and tag them, but at least in this version of the FrankenCube, we wont be using them.
- Once this is done, Terminate all the wires with your Dupont Connectors. Basically, if the set consists of 4 wires, make sure you match the colour pattern / sequence eg Blue red black green ->Blue red black green
- Now, time to put together your new motherboard. Plug each of the 4 Stepper drivers into the appropriate location on your ramps 1.4 board. MAKE SURE the little pots on the steppers are furthest away from the power connectors (green / blue) connectors. If you plug them in backwards, expect them to burn and need replacing.
(http://googledrive.com/host/0B5QC7YgUeEEqOWlnaTJob2hHT2s/WP_20141119_012.jpg) - IF your Ramps 1.4 comes with a separate small resistor, wire it between R5 and R19 with the band on the resistor closest to the power connectors (it passes power from the arduino to the ramps). IF your ramps doesnt come with this resistor, dont worry, its likely already in place (see in between the connectors for the X Motor?)
- Now connect up the end stops as pictured. Then the motors as pictured. Now connect the heater wires and connect the thermistor ... as pictured, then connect your power supply wires as shown. Wire your heater wires (dont worry about polarity) to D10 on the RAMPS 1.4 board and the Hot End Fan to D9 on the RAMPS board. With the Fan, if your polarity is incorrect, the fan will blow in the wrong direction, just reverse the polarity on D9 if that's the case. As for all the end stops, polarity wont matter (not for the endstops in my cube anyway). (http://googledrive.com/host/0B5QC7YgUeEEqOWlnaTJob2hHT2s/WP_20141120_004.jpg)
(http://googledrive.com/host/0B5QC7YgUeEEqOWlnaTJob2hHT2s/WP_20141120_004.jpg)
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OK.. Thats about as much as I've got tonight. Tomorrow : Merlin Firmware. Any questions?
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Edit. You may have noticed in the pictures I posted, Im no longer using the Cube direct drive extruder so I decided to post some notes on the subject.
Basically the old Cube 2 runs on a 24v system. This is fine for the coil based hotend the Cube 2 comes supplied with, but fails miserably when converted to 12v. It just doesnt get hot enough to melt plastic running on 12v. Another advantage to changing the hotend and extruder is that I was able to lighten the load on the X axis thus reducing backlash and I could pick and chose my hotend. AS I really only want to do this once, I went for the Merlin Hotend. It's a 12v cartridge heater hotend which has interchangeable nozzles. THis means if I really do require finer prints, I can always change the nozzle. The heater cartridge supplied with the Mrlin hotend heats to 230C in about 2 mins - on 12v the Cube Hotend/Extruder would get passed 205C - after 10mins.
I recommend you download, print and assemble the Airtrippers Bowden extruder prior to dismantling the Cube, as its the only printed part I ended up requiring for this project. Fortunately for me, I was able to rip one off a Rostock printer I'd made previously, otherwise, I'd have been up **** creek.
THe extruder I mounted to the side of the printer (see pics) with some button head wood screws. This seems to hold it quite well. I used PFTE Pushfit connectors in the top of my Extruder and another in the top of my Merlin Hotend. THe Merlin hotend does not come with a screw in connection in the top. I had to drill a 3/8" hole in mine and use a 3/8" die to cut the thread. Easilly done by hand with a $15 Tap from your local hardware store. To each of the push fit connectors, I inserted about 50cm of PFTE tube to suite 1.75mm filament. The PFTE Push fit connectors will grab permanently once you push in your tube so make sure it's cut to size first as once it goes in, it aint coming out.
To attach the hotend, I removed most of the metal parts from the X axis, grinded a slot in the end of the remaining metal bit that sticks out the bottom - big enough to "house" the PEEK part of the Merlin hotend, then used cable ties around the top and bottom of the PEEK (important - to avoid melting cable ties) and secured to whatever I could on the remaining metal part of the X axis. Complicated sounding, but I really did fudge this - works a treat though. Just remember, it really doesnt matter how high, low, left or right you mount your hotend - or what flavor of hotend you use - as long as it is fairly straight and doesnt move - it will be just fine. One thing worth noting though - mout your hotend as high as possible to ensure your max print dimensions are retained as much as possible. (I lost about 10mm off my Z direction, for me, I've never pushed the limit of my Z with the Cube so I dont really care).
Check the pictures in the OneDrive Link below this post and feel free to ask questions.
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Well it appears this is going to be more of a journey rather than a quick hack. I've now discovered why 3D Systems used a 24v power supply for this sucker...Because the hotend wont heat beyond 215 degrees with just 12v. Sooo this means I now need to reconsider the system. Basically I could change to a more suitable hotend for the power, OR change to a more suitable Arduino for the power. The Mega 2560 Runs on up to 20v, so... while im confident more power will sort the problem, I'd rather not run this puppy at 20v due to the fact this is a limit, not recommendation.
I've got a feeling this unit will require the addition of a J-head, cartridge style hotend which runs well on 12v, unless I can figure out how to get the Cube hotend to do more with less.
Sigh.
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So in the end, I trashed the shitty 3d systems hotend and changed to a Merlin J-Head with Bowden Extruder. Reason being, Bowden is light, I can remove the weight from the X axis by using a bowden tube rather than the 3D systems direct drive. This will make the X Axis Lighter and hopefully more accurate at high speed. Second, this puppy runs damn good on 12v.
Basically I removed almost all of the hotend metal parts and motor, Drilled slot in the bottom metal plate of the X axis to hold the PEEK part of the hotend, then cable tied around the PEEK to hold it nice and tightly in place.
Ill attach some pics later.
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I've finally figured out the wiring and configuration for my frankencube. The unit is printing better than it ever has. Its quieter, faster, more accurate and much more flexible. Can't post any pics for the next few days because our internet at home took a lightning strike. I'll post a copy of the customised marlin firmware as soon as my home internet comes back online along with some revised wiring details and further instructions.
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Hello Dan,
I am very happy with your information because i am thinking about doing the same with my cube 3d 2nd gen. printer.
About a year ago i did build a 3d printer (http://www.thingiverse.com/make:72807) with minitronics Electronics (reprapworld.com).
So i am thinking of using mintronics because a have some experience with that and not with adruino.
I would very much like more information about the marlin firmware and the wiring.
I assume you want to print with ABS because you mention that you need a higher temperature than 215 C?.
So thanks again and Kind Regards,
Frits (The Netherlands)
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Hi Fritz,
Ill try to make this as simple as possible... Dont waste your time with the cube as is. If you're thinking about it - leap right in. I've had to make quite a few changes to the chassis, heaps to the electronics etc, but geez was it worth it. Print quality to so much superior to what the Cube 2 could do as it was purchased. Im so happy with the results. Here's a pic of the nearly finished product. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=3816C66A7D7D18AA&resid=3816C66A7D7D18AA%212282&authkey=AGFO2y4xry0xM0I (https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=3816C66A7D7D18AA&resid=3816C66A7D7D18AA%212282&authkey=AGFO2y4xry0xM0I)
Basically, from a wiring perspective, here's how it goes. Everything wired as a normal Marlin setup would be, however : X and Y endstops MUST be wired to the MIN endstop location on RAMPS 1.4 and the Z must be wired to the Z MAX endstop on RAMPS. Fans (I've used 5) I reused from the ones I pulled out of the original Cube Setup. I used Cable ties to loosely connect the fans to each motor, one around the girth of the motor, then 2 more connecting the fan to the girth cabletie. Then just wired all of them in Parallel to D9 on the RAMPS. Most important is the fan over the RAMPS. If you dont use the fan, your stepper drivers will get too hot and skip steps and the worst possible time. Trust me, just wire it in. As for Firmware, here is the modified firmware im using. The solution in the end was simple, but getting there took days of screwing around. There was no manual or help anywhere to do this, so I had to experiment a lot.
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=3816C66A7D7D18AA&resid=3816C66A7D7D18AA%212281&authkey=AHF_eUTC465Z8m8 (https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=3816C66A7D7D18AA&resid=3816C66A7D7D18AA%212281&authkey=AHF_eUTC465Z8m8)
If anyone has any questions, or requires detailed pics, please let me know.
By the way, that first one drive link will be where I post pics of this project. Check back often as I'll add more pics as requested and as the project develops.
Regards
Dan
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Did I mention how quiet this unit is with the new electronics. Basically, from what i can tell, the Cube 2 as is had drivers that were way overdriven (too much amps to motors). THis created vibrations along the Y axis particularly in my unit and made it incredibly noisy. With the Frankencube, I was able to quieten the whole setup by dialing down the current to XYZ motors and adding a fan to each of the motors as well as the electronics. I now have whisper quiet, reliable operation. The Extruder however has full current applied, but as it moves generally so much slower than the other motors, the noise is minimal, even with high current.
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Hi Dan,
Thanks for your information. I will follow your advices.
I will let you know how i am getting along with the project.
Also my cube was very noisy, one of my reasons to change the electronics to open source.
Kind Regards,
Frits
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You dont *have* to change the electronics to OS to make the motors quieter, but you DO need to strap a fan on the back of each of the stepper drivers and reduce the current by turning the 3 pots on the main board about 1/4 turn anticlockwise. Still there are a billion other reasons to do so - print quality would be the biggest for me.
I figured out the reason the steppers are so noisy is because they are WAY overdriven. The current I ended up with was about half of the original. A rough way to measure this is to use a Multimeter - place one pole on a common earth (Black wire from power supply) and the other in the center of the pot you are testing. A typical value should be between .1 - 2.5v (if the stepper allows). With the A4988 drivers im currently using, I have mine set to about .2v for each Axis and .95 for the extruder. THese figures would not be achievable without cooling on each of the Stepper Motors AND the electronics themselves. I have a fan (cable tied of course) right over the stepper drivers. This printer is now one of the quietest i've heard.
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Great project! Looking forward to see your results on this beast!
I would love to hack my Cube Gen1 in some near future. I'm frustrated with this machine as well, lack of parameters to play with.
Thanks for sharing!
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Hello Dan
I did build the minitronics Electronics in my cube. At the moment i am testing the x,y,z movements and the extruder. With regard to the thermistor of the extruder i have the impression that it is a 200k thermistor and not a 100k thermistor. Because with a 200k thermistor in the firmware the temperature at room temp is 22 Celcius, with a 100k thermistor only 6 C. In your firmware you have the 100k thermistor. I think your 100k thermistor is the one of your new hotent. Is that right.
Beside that the max temp i can reach with 12 volt is +/- 150 C. So i wil use a relais to supply the hotend with 24 volt (the original powersupply).
Kind Regards,
Frits
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Correct and Correct again. 100K is for the new hotend, the old thermister went with the old hotend. Does minitronics accept 24v? I know my Mega 2560 /RAMPS is max 12. From memory I also used the 200K setting while testing the old hotend.
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Hello Dan,
I think the minitronics can be used with 24 volt. But because you wrote "this puppy runs damn good on 12v" i bought a 12 volt power supply.
So i will connect the hotend power of the minitronics to a 12 volt relay. This relay wil switch the 24 volt of the original cube power supply to the hotend.
Frits
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I can see V1.1 runs on 12v max. according to specs I read on ebay listing for the board. Would it not be easier to change the hotend? - then you have the benefit of reducing weight on the X axis, allowing greater speeds with less backlash due to lower inertia.
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Hello Dan,
Switching 24 volt to the extruder with a relay was not a good idea. A lot of noise from de relay.
So I followed your suggestion end discovered that the minitronics can also run with up to 24 volt.
Now I am running the electronics with 19 volt, and a separate 12 volt supply for the cooling fans.
The heating up of the extruder is now really fast. So a very good suggestion from you. Thanks again.
Frits
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Hello Dan,
I made a first test run. (See YouTube link below).
What you see:
Grid for the inlet of the Extruder and cooling fans removed (less noise)
Switches for the cooling fans.
Power supplies 19 volt (electronics) and 12 volt for the cooling fans.
Big holes in the housing for cooling air outlet and adjusting the stepper motors current.
With this low printing speed the printer is very quiet. The temperature of the steppers is quite low so think I don’t need cooling fans for the steppers.
What I would like to know is the nozzle diameter of the hot end, do you know that?
YouTube Link:
http://youtu.be/BGnGEhgzk_s
Frits
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***giggling like a school girl**** So sweet. Nicely done. Yours looks a lot more original than mine. Any chance you could post more detail on the electronics and the power supply issue - perhaps how exactly you resolved it?
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SOOOOO Quiet!!! Sweeeet!
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BTW.. Id be interested to see how big prints go on that baby. With mine, small prints were perfect, but when I started doing bigger ones, after about 3 hrs, the steppers began to skip so I had to increase the amps and therefore noise (although still heaps better than the out-of-the-box cube). I also ended up replacing the extruder stepper all together with a stronger one as no matter how much amps I fed the tiny one it came with, it would get too hot after an hour or so (I am using a bowden extruder though). Having seen the Microtronics hardware though, I notice from the chips they've got the newer drivers on board, delivering more amps to the steppers than the 4988's im using could deliver.
dan
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Hello Dan,
Switching 24 volt to the extruder with a relay was not a good idea. A lot of noise from de relay.
So I followed your suggestion end discovered that the minitronics can also run with up to 24 volt.
Now I am running the electronics with 19 volt, and a separate 12 volt supply for the cooling fans.
The heating up of the extruder is now really fast. So a very good suggestion from you. Thanks again.
Frits
Did you keep those voltage regs on the existing fans in place? I'd have thought they'd have worked with 19v input no probs???? Did you try it?
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Hello Dan,
With regard to your questions.
The electronics I used is minitronics (for info see reprapworld.com)
The mintronics is supplied with a 12 volt cooling fan for cooling the print. So I made a hole in the bottom and mounted the fan below the print. For a better air supply to the bottom i made higher/longer legs for the cube.
The power supply of the minitonics can be up to 24 volt (if the correct jumper is removed.). If the power supply of the mintornics is 19 volt ( I my case, I had a 19 volt power supply from an old printer) than the power to the hotend is also 19 volt. This is sufficient to heat up the hot end.
The power output of the minitronics for the cooling fans is also 19 volt. So I use a second 12 volt power supply for the existing fans and the one that came with the minitronics. I did not test the exiting fans with 19 volt (fear of burning them).
I did put 2 thermocouples on the extruder stepper motor during a 2 hour print. After one hour the surface temperature of this stepper is stable at +/- 40 C. The other stepper motors are lower than 40 C (estimated by touching with my fingers).
During my first runs the steppers became quite hot so I reduced the Vref with the 4 pots on the print.
A the moment I am running with Cura 14.09. Layer height 0.2 mm. I did not test any other heights. The prints look very good (better than my home made Alu mendel http://www.thingiverse.com/make:72807)
With Cura I start with gcode M84 S0, to prevent the bed falling down. Than home all axis, especially the z axis 3 times. Then I start the print. In the end gcode I removed M84, also to prevent the bed falling down.
I you have any other questions please let me know.
Kind regards,
Frits
http://youtu.be/OkJHE_MEm9Y
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Great tips there. - THanks for sharing. For me I just hacked open the area which used to hold the digital display and strapped a fan going right over the electronics. I also drilled a few more holes in the case to allow for access to the trim pots for adjusting stepper power. All steppers have a salvaged fan from the cube cable tied to them. Just a large one around the girth of each motor as an anchor, then some small ones connecting the fan to the girth anchor ties. All steppers feel luke warm when running. Without them, they got too hot, even running at low amps. Again im running a 12v system.
So you didnt end up re-using the 24v power supply form the Cube?
Your prints are looking so sweet. Congrats on a great build.
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Hello Dan,
Yes it is true that I do not use the original cube power supply. Because with 24 volt the hot end did heat up very quickly. With 19 volt this goes more smooth. So a matter of (may be stupid) feeling.
Below a video of printing with 0.25 mm layer and print speed 35 mm/s. If I print much faster the extruder is skipping steps.
With regard to printing with non cube filament I have read in this forum that the diameter of the cube filament is about 1.6 mm. I measure 1.7. I did not try yet but I am surprised that with filament of 1.75 people get problems with the extruder. What is your opinion about that.
Frits
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rB7T0G71Jms&feature=youtu.be
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Yeah extruder stepper is tiny on the Cube 2. Very easy to retro fit a larger one. May have to remove that nice cover from your hotend to fit it though. One thing I that got mentioned by a friend of mine was the potential for filament temperature to be reduced with printing speed. May be worth trying to increase the temperature of hotend as print speed increases. Working on a high speed delta printer right now. Trouble is bottom layer needs low speed, which will overheat the PLA making it crackle and pop. Anyone know of a slicer which can slice at varying temperatures?
Im only aware of a manual way of doing this by splitting 2 of the same files, sliced with different temperature settings.
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Hello Dan,
Printing at different temperatures can be done very good with cura (plugin Tweak).
An other advantage of cura is that you can use settings of different machines.
It can also be done with Simplify3D (100 euro's).
Frits
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Hmm never used cura, but will give it a go on my new "Elevator" - a 2m tall, twin struder delta giant. Something tells me im going to need to figure out how to make my own filament if im to print life size models of my children. ;D
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Dan,
I'm curious if you are still using your modified 2nd gen Cube? Do you have any time to post your latest thoughts and recommended parts/software for those that might want to attempt this same thing?
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Yes, still using it. I use it for smaller parts now and have used it primarily to create the parts necessary for my "Elevator" (own design) 2 meter Delta Printer. In terms of the hardware, nothing has changed since my original post. Its reliable, lightning fast, uses whatever nozzle I screw into it and makes far less noise than the Cube. Im here to help if you have any specific questions about the setup.
Dan
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Ok good to know.
I'm thinking about this but keep coming back to how even after all that effort and expense I'd still be missing a heated print plate. Might eventually just build a new printer instead. ??? We shall see...
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Heated plate is easily possible with the marlin firmware and arduino. Just plug the heated plate in. Firmware is already setup to use it. If printing with pla only, I'm not sure you'll ever need it.
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Very pleased i found this forum / thread.
I recent acquired a CubeX model..
Now i had an Ultimaker some time back which was one of the early versions back when they upgraded many parts but not the online instructions.. you can assume how much fun that was especially for how new all of this was to us all.
Sadly i had to part with it.
Anyhow. Having been out of the loop for some time a Cartridge for a printer is an insane idea and we're not in 1998 anymore.
My Cubex is certainly pretty and looks sturdy but after reading reviews and countless threads of issues and so on i'm now contemplating ripping out all the boards and general electronics and replacing them with tried and tested guts of the Ultimaker.
You mentioned about the Hotend only being 12v. the Cubex is a dual head ( which i've not had any experience with) I'm wondering if the only salvageable parts are the frame, motors, gantry and general parts and scrap the rest?
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Hey Dan,
is it possible to use the cube's direct drive stepper for a bowden extruder or is it too weak? I started ordering al thre parts to modify mine over the summer ans I was wondering if I really need to order another stepper motor or if it can wait a little while.
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Could someone be so kind as to provide their settings for ramps / marlin. Fritshgl or Dan maybe?
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Ignore the last post found your link dan
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Hi Dan
Let me introduce myself first, my name is Joop from the NL and i am completely new in 3D printing but knowledge about programming and electronics no problem.
A friend of my give me a broken Cube 2nd generation and because of your post i start buying the equipment like Arduino, stepper drivers, Ramps 1.4 and Smart controller display SD card.
The motors, end-stops and thermal couple i connected to the RAMPS 1.4. I downloaded the Marlin Firmware and i made the changes as far needed. I also downloaded your firmware so i can compare and see some difference in the configuration.h. With the Pronterface software i can control the motors but they are not well calibrated. So i start changing the "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT" to different values but maybe this is not the right place to do because when i look your firmware you using {80, 80, 80, 80} and i guess we are using the same motors because of the Cube Hardware.
Can you give me some advice for the settings in the firmware? Maybe some tips and trics.
Maybe its better to use other interface software instead of Pronterface?
The extruder is the last part i want to try because i read that this is not working on the 12V, but first step by step for me.
Thank you in advance.
Joop
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Hello Joop,
Below part of my conf.h end gcode, start end end
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 2 //!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0
//===========================================================================
//=============================Mechanical Settings===========================
//===========================================================================
// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR 1 //!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#define min_software_endstops true //If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#define max_software_endstops true //If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.
// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 140
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 140
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 138.8 // was 135 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_LENGTH (X_MAX_POS - X_MIN_POS)
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH (Y_MAX_POS - Y_MIN_POS)
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH (Z_MAX_POS - Z_MIN_POS)
// The position of the homing switches
//#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0 // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)
// default settings
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {160,160,160,350} // hangt van stapgrootte stepperdriver af
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {101, 101, 30, 10} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1500,1500,70,7000} //
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 2100 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts
START GCODE CURA
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M84 S0 ;Geen disable motors anders valt printbed naar beneden
G28 Z0 ; EERSTE POGING Z HOME
G1 Z110 ; NAAR Z=110
G28 Z0 ; HOME Z NU GOED
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
END G code
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
G28 Z0 ; home Z
;M84 ;steppers off STeppers niet af anders valt bed met klap naar beneden
G90 ;absolute positioning
;{profile_string}
Frits
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Hello Frits,
Thank you for your reply. I hope i can test this evening.
I read in your source code "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {160,160,160,350} // hangt van stapgrootte stepperdriver af" and your comments says that the value depends about the stepperdriver. I'm using the "Stepper Drivers A4988" with the original Cube Stepper motors, but u are using other Stepper Drivers? Can i use the same values? Or does Dan using the same Stepper Drivers as me and i need to use his values from his firmware?
What is the best software to calibrate or test my system?
Thank you in advance.
Joop
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Hallo /Hello Joop,
I am using minitronics (Reprapworld.com) with 1/32 stepper drivers, I think Dans stepper drivers have 1/16 step that is why i need 160 steps and Dan 80.
You can a easily test with Simlify3d or Cura (i have very goods prints with cura). Move x,y and z 10 mm and check if it is OK. If your moves are 5 mm instead of 10 mm than you have to double the steps in Marlin configuration.h.
At the start of the Z axis tests use the command M84 S0 (S zero) , this prevents the bed falling down after 1/2 minutes.!!!!
If the motors get to hot reduce the amps.!!!!!
Kind Regards/ Groeten
Frits
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Hallo Fred,
I didn't know i needed to use the jumpers under the stepper drivers, but now i put in and stepper motors working accurate.
I also was confused about the home values and endstop for the Z-as because for the Cube this is working from top to bottom, but now correct this in the firmware and with Prontoface i can control all motors also the extruder and heater element is no problem till 230C with the 12V.
After calibration i start printing my first object and the first layer is going ok, but when the second layer starts the nozzle is little to high from the first layer.
So probable i need to fill in other parameters for generating a code gcode aswell.
Do you know the Nozzle Diameter of the Cube? 0.25? And the value of the 1st Layer height and other layers? Also 0.25?
What is the best speed and temperature for ABS to print. My first layer print slower as the second, is that ok?
Thanks in advance
Joop
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Hello Joop,
I think you have to check the z-axis steps, move the z-axis 30 mm and measure if it is correct, if not adjust the steps.
Also check the same with the extruder. If both are ok it should work without changing any gcode.
For my setting see attachments (I hope this works).
Some of my settings :
Nozzle : 0.35 (I use that, I do not know the real size)
Layer height : 0.2
Initial layer height : 0.26 (first layer print is always slower, is normal)
initial layer with: 125%
Printing temp pla 200 C
Speed: 35 (I only use the cube for small parts)
Retraction speed: 40
Retraction distance: 2
My cube has no heated bed so I never print ABS (because of warping)
Kind regards Frits , not Fred
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At the start of the Z axis tests use the command M84 S0 (S zero) , this prevents the bed falling down after 1/2 minutes.!!!!
If the motors get to hot reduce the amps.!!!!!
That other option, if your using marlin, is to set #define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME 0 in configuration_adv.h
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Hi Frits,
These days not so much time to test the printer.
But i tried last week. As i told i use the hardware from the Cube like stepper motors, extruder and hotend.
I'm also using the 1.75mm ABS filament from Cubify.
Because of the 12V system instead of 24V the hotend couldn't get warmer then 230 degrees and i'm not sure if thats enough for these ABS.
The first two layers with printing goes quit well, but suddenly the filament is not coming out anymore and the extruder/hotend get stucked.
Maybe it's better to test with PLA?? Or do you have any information about this hotend from the Cube second generation? Maybe i need to change some settings but don't know exactly wich one.
Maybe others have any suggestions to complete my first print?
Thanks in advance.
Joop
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Hi Joop,
I would suggest you try printing with PLA at 200 C.
Layer height 0.2 mm and printing speed 30 mm/s.
Could be that the heat capacity of the extruder is to low for 230 C.
Frits
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I have taken the plunge and replaced the electronics in my Cube3D 2nd Gen.
I have, however, made most all the changes reversible, so that I can revert back to the original design if required.
I am running 24v, and intend to use the original PSU. My plan is to use a Buck 24v voltage convertor to power the CPU.
For now, here's a picture of the current state of the unit.
Ramps is running on 24v. Mega is using 5v from USB, although I will use the Buck voltage convertor to supply the 5V when I am happy with the machine, and want to run it standalone.
Case fan is run from 24v and is on permanently.
Extruder fan is running off PWM (D10) (removed 7812 reg and set PWM to give about 13v) and is auto started when extruder is >50 degrees.
Bed cooling fans (the 3 at the rear) are also on PWM (D9).
Extruder is on D8, and can easily reach the required temperatures very quickly.
Most things work fine, although I have some issues to sort out.
1. The Y axis suffers from false endstop triggering when homing.
2. The Z axis seems to home a few millimetres above the natural rest of the plate, and crashes down when the steppers are disabled (on idle, for example).
3. I need to work out how to do those things that were automated for me with the cube standard hardware (load/unload filament, set nozzle/plate gap).
To complete the build, I need to make a blanking plate for the original LCD location; make a box for the new LCD; make a blanking plate for the rear of the unit (where the USB and power cables exit); and get a power socket compatible with the original PSU.
I may also have to tweak the software to get it to work exactly as I want (ex, item 2 above).
I have yet to try making something, but it will probably be some test objects.
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so i was thinking of doing this since i got a used cube 2 about a month ago. But now i am getting the temp error and its not heating up. i assume its a faied head.
Now i think i have no choice. I really cant fork out 200 for a new head from 3d systems. Is replacing the head with one like the one shown (jhead ) possible without full modding it ?
I am fairly good with electronics, but completely new the 3d printers. I NEED HELP =c
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Mine is all done now. Just need to tune it.
Here is a pic of the finished item.
I damaged the nozzle after reaming it out after a bad blockage, and so replaced it with a HEX extruder.
I also managed to get it to fit in the original location, and with minor modification, the extruder cover also fits.
The PSU is the original one. I am using all 24v, with the exception of the extruder fan (original) and arduino.
these are run off a 12V BUCK convertor).
Very quiet when not in use (and I don't mean off). The case fan is on when motors are running, and 2 mins after.
Extruder fan is on when temp is >35 degrees.
Oh, and it all Bluetooth or SD card printing. No USB in sight!
I have yet to complete the tuning of speed and velocities for good printing, but I am happy with the results.
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Wow that is awesome! Do you have any idea how much the parts cost together?
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I will post my build on a separate thread, shortly.
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Last week i stumbled on this forum and started reading about hacks for Cube 2, which i own. So now i'm printing stuff sliced with Kisslicer, bough my first non-Cube filament (not tried yet) and opened my Cube up to fit two cartridge chips behind a switch (jumpers), so i really don't need Cube cartridges anymore. Thanks for the these, my printer just seems so much better now :).
I stripped all plastic covers off my Cube and i might leave it naked, as it seems that those covers were amplifying to noise. I don't mind about the aesthetics, only the functionality :)
I noticed a mention about lowering the power fed to the steppers using ports on mainboard, to make the printer more quiet. However, i don't have any potentiometers on the mb of my Cube. I did some measurements and one line to stepper was reading about 2.0V, so apparently there's room to lower (if that was the proper voltage anyways...), but just need to figure out how. There are 4 a3979slpt stepper drivers which i believe to be responsible of the current fed to the steppers. Looking at the datasheet, there are two Sense pins which probably control this, so changing those resistors might do the trick. Need to do some measurements. Also, if someone has pots on their Cube motherboard and can send me a picture of the, that might be help.
Also there was a mention about using a Zener diode to block the writes to the cartridge chip. If i'll find a Zener diode, i'll see what it does now that the machine is taken apart.
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I would like to know if you are able to get this thing to print bulk filament. I never could mine to print with it. I tried adjusting the gears but it always seemed to not be able to push it through.
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I've been printing with bulk filament for a week now. I did need to adjust the gears, because the slightly bigger bulk filament was squished too much be the default gear setting and didn't fit the nozzle. I've had only one failed print out of 20 or so, the filament jammed in the middle of the print. I think that it was caused by me testing some extrusion settings in Kisslicer, because since then no problems.
I've tried two brands of filament, Cel Robox white PLA and Esun black PLA. I also have a roll of black Filaflex, but haven't tested it yet.
Adjusting the gear: on my printer, it was impossible to adjust the gear because the way it's machined. The backside of the gear has the gear's axle protruding and this protrusion then fits a hole in the frame and thus cannot move backwards from it's original position. I needed to file away a bit from the axle so now the gear can be moved backwards more.
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Ok. Thanks for the quick reply. If you have the cover off, could you post a pic of which part you did the grinding? I too have been using the kisslicer software and it works really well. The only problem I have with this thing is buying their filament. It makes me not want to even use it.
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I'll see if i can get a picture later when the printer is not printing. I need to remove the gear to a picture.
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I stole the pic from youtube. Does it show the part you altered?
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Yes, on the right of the box you drew, behind the green PCB (on the pic), is a nut that you must open to remove the part where the gear (or it might be a wheel, i'm not native english speaking person ;) ) is attached to. After you remove it, on the back there's the axle protrusion that needs to be filed.
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Stepper current definitely effects how low loud or 'fluid' it's operation is. I tested this today by altering Vref (which affects the current). I actually had to raise to voltage, which in turn raises the current (if i've understood the chip datasheet correctly).
On my printer, only really loud axis seems to be the Y (the arm where the bed is attached to). I was actually wondering if there's something loose on the arm, especially during the fast moves. After rising the Vref from 0.3V to 0.35V the situation improved considerably, the machine doesn't sound like it's breaking apart :). I've only done this to the Y axis stepper driver, but it might be that that's the only one i need to alter as other steppers don't sound bad.
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After further testing, stepper current doesn't have much effect after the 0.3V mark. It does smooth to worst 'jaggedness' a bit, but doesn't fix the problem. I wonder if the Y axis of my printer just is fitted with not-so-good stepper, or if the whole plate attachment system resonates too much, causing the loud noise.
I've been thinking about printing dampeners for the steppers with Filaflex, but i need to plan that as it affects the stepper attachment to frame.
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Printed a dampener with FilaFlex for Y-axis and it works better that expected: Y-axis is by far the most silent of all now. Now to design similar setup for X-axis, i need to do it bit differently due to the differences how the steppers are attached to the frame.
FilaFlex: hard to get printing right, but when succesfully printed, it's very tough material, flexible, but tough. To get it printing properly with Cube 2, spped must be kept low. I had success with max 10mm/s printing speed set in Kisslicer. Faster speed just made the filament bend before the nozzle opening and jam.
Also PETG works fine, bough REAL transparent red. Seem to be getting more warping than with PLA even though PETG should be better in that regards...
Some assorted 3DPrinting pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qyosfww7zud15l4/AAAp6i1h_ljRp9sGNML-bRyya?dl=0
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Thanks for the write up,
It looks like there's 4 endstops installed? is this right? from the picture
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To my understanding, there's only 3 end stops.
Seems that i'm taking the plunge, too. Ordered RAMPS 1.4 and other stuff for other printer that i'm printing (Dollo3d, http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?12856-Dollo-3D-Printable-3D-Printer). However, as Cube 2 can be a PITA to operate and quality is bit of a mix of good and bad, even with good slicers, i thought that why not install RAMPS to it and finish the Dollo print with it. So now i'll need to start figuring out Arduino etc., never had the pleasure of using it.
I'm thinking that i'll leave the original cables and connectors as they are, so i can return to Cube 2 mobo (if i ever want to, that is...). I'll make some additional cables that plug in to Cube cables and other ends got to RAMPS. I already have J-Head on my Cube 2 and using bowden extruder so the hw setup shouldn't be a problem. Actually, as i currently need 24V -> 12V conversion the get J-Head working safely, i can forget that bit of electronics.
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Yes there only 3 endstops, but in his picture of the ramps board, he has something plugged in the Z- min pins.. so when he says connect the endstops as shown, I got confused.. I just got the firmware installed on my ramps.. keeping my fingers crossed.
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I've finally figured out the wiring and configuration for my frankencube. The unit is printing better than it ever has. Its quieter, faster, more accurate and much more flexible. Can't post any pics for the next few days because our internet at home took a lightning strike. I'll post a copy of the customised marlin firmware as soon as my home internet comes back online along with some revised wiring details and further instructions.
Hi Dan
I have my ramps, wired as shown in the pictures, but when I try to install the firmware, I get errors, I think maybe I wired something wrong, can you take a picture of the wiring again, or just let me know.. Thanks Dan, I'm glad you put this together for us..
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I don't know for sure but installing firmware to the Arduino shouldn't require anything else than the Arduino itself. I installed firmware on my board while it was sitting on my desk and only RAMPS was connected to it. Uploaded just fine and when i booted it with only USB power and LCD attached, it had Marlin firmware running. I haven't connected it to the printer yet, need to to some wiring first.
So i think it's a problem with your firmware code. What kind of errors do you get?
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Thanks spegelius
That did the trick, like you said no wires attached just the ramps.. One of my endstops was shorted because of a solder break.. Do you know if the frankencube needs to be calibrated after the ramps is installed? if so I need to find a Caliper..
Thanks again, I think I going to do a missing person report on Dan..lol
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Heh, yeah Dan has been MIA for a while. But he did leave good instructions, shouldn't be too hard to figure stuff out.
About calibration: i think that what is mostly needed is to tune the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT. I'm using
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80, 80} as that's what Dan has in his firmware and it should work with the A4988 stepper drivers. If not, then just change those values until it produces proper movements. Another thing is the Z-axis offsets, but as i haven't used Marlin ever before I don't know if there's a setting that can be tuned without changing the code and re-uploading the firmware.
Also i'm using latest stable version of Marlin firmware and that's bit different compared to what Dan was using. I think i got the values set up right, but that's to be seen when i get enough time to finish the installation, maybe this weekend.
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Heh, yeah Dan has been MIA for a while. But he did leave good instructions, shouldn't be too hard to figure stuff out.
About calibration: i think that what is mostly needed is to tune the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT. I'm using
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80, 80} as that's what Dan has in his firmware and it should work with the A4988 stepper drivers. If not, then just change those values until it produces proper movements. Another thing is the Z-axis offsets, but as i haven't used Marlin ever before I don't know if there's a setting that can be tuned without changing the code and re-uploading the firmware.
Also i'm using latest stable version of Marlin firmware and that's bit different compared to what Dan was using. I think i got the values set up right, but that's to be seen when i get enough time to finish the installation, maybe this weekend.
Thanks my friend.. and I agree Dan did leave good instructions.. Thanks Dan.
Hopefully you stick around, just in case I get stuck..
I am now seeing if I can get the z axis offset, and maybe try my first print, in the next day or so.. good luck spegelius, with your project.
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Thanks my friend.. and I agree Dan did leave good instructions.. Thanks Dan.
Hopefully you stick around, just in case I get stuck..
I am now seeing if I can get the z axis offset, and maybe try my first print, in the next day or so.. good luck spegelius, with your project.
Thanks. When you get the z-offset figured out, do post it here as i'm unsure about it myself. If the offset is set in firmware, it's going to be a PITA to set as i'm planning to run prints from sdcard and not have PC connected to the printer...
I did the wiring and no smoke :). And it's working, partly:
- nozzle temp is read correctly and it heats up
- X and Y axes are moving, had to flip the connectors, though
- endstops for X and Y work, i can home the axes.
- fan seems to get power, but i need to remove the resistor i have installed (needed it because the fan is 12V and Cube uses 24V)
- LCD and controller works, haven't tested sdcard slot yet
Not working:
- Z doesn't move. Actually i can't even input a mm value with controller. I suspect that this is simply a misconfig i made in firmware, need to check that.
- E doesn't move, even though i can input movement length with controller. I need to check the wiring. The extruder stepper motor is not the default Cube motor, but i works with Cube's motherboard. I bought a new motor when is installed the Airtrippers bowden extruder because Cube's motor didn't have long enough axle and the drive gear is really stuck on it anyway.
Both Z and E get power to the connectors and all the A4988 drivers have proper vref voltages (needed to tune them down, by default they give 0.63V which is too much).
Some pictures of the messy setup which i hope i can get cleaned up later: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qyosfww7zud15l4/AAAp6i1h_ljRp9sGNML-bRyya?dl=0
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Thanks. When you get the z-offset figured out, do post it here as i'm unsure about it myself. If the offset is set in firmware, it's going to be a PITA to set as i'm planning to run prints from sdcard and not have PC connected to the printer...
I did the wiring and no smoke :). And it's working, partly:
- nozzle temp is read correctly and it heats up
- X and Y axes are moving, had to flip the connectors, though
- endstops for X and Y work, i can home the axes.
- fan seems to get power, but i need to remove the resistor i have installed (needed it because the fan is 12V and Cube uses 24V)
- LCD and controller works, haven't tested sdcard slot yet
Not working:
- Z doesn't move. Actually i can't even input a mm value with controller. I suspect that this is simply a misconfig i made in firmware, need to check that.
- E doesn't move, even though i can input movement length with controller. I need to check the wiring. The extruder stepper motor is not the default Cube motor, but i works with Cube's motherboard. I bought a new motor when is installed the Airtrippers bowden extruder because Cube's motor didn't have long enough axle and the drive gear is really stuck on it anyway.
Both Z and E get power to the connectors and all the A4988 drivers have proper vref voltages (needed to tune them down, by default they give 0.63V which is too much).
Some pictures of the messy setup which i hope i can get cleaned up later: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qyosfww7zud15l4/AAAp6i1h_ljRp9sGNML-bRyya?dl=0
I was having alot of problems with the Marlin firmware, so I tried the Repetier Firmware, the download page, let you configure the firmware before you download it, and it explains what all the different values are, which for me being new to the 3d printer world was great..
Everything was moving as it should, after the upload..
I'm using a mk8 extruder china clone version, and instead of extruding it just makes a clunking nosie, also the hot end says it heated up, but still cold, I think i might get rid of the mk8, and get a E3D J-head Hotend 1.75mm..
Check your E and Z max acceleration, in the configuration h, make sure it's not set to 5000, if it is, set it to 1000, This worked for me when my Y axis wouldn't move with marlin..
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Ok, good to know there's alternative, i have heard about Repetier before but didn't really know what it is. Interesting.
I got Z and E working; Z was a misconfiguration on my part, i had swapped min and max positions so the length was probably -140mm :). No wonder that it didn't work.
E was not moving simply because i tried to move it without heating the nozzle; Marlin (wisely) prevents this so there's no damage to se extruder setup when trying to extrude cold filament.
I didn't get a print made yet, but played around with Pronterface and Simplify3D. I had some trouble with S3D as it didn't seem to want to send commands to the unit... probably a problem with the previous firmware settings i used with original Cube2 motherboard.
Also i need proper Start g-code and end g-code, i'll try the ones posted previoulsy in this thread.
For the Z-offset, the method seems to be to move Z, Y and Z to the actual 0-position then selecting Set offsets.
And the Z kept falling down after 2 minutes, which was fixed by disabling stepper timeout for Z.
Getting there... :)
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No progress with the printer, had other errands to do whole day, but i forked the Marlin github repo and pushed my Cube2 config there: https://github.com/spegelius/Marlin. Use branch Cube2_RC. It's based on 1.1.0_RC6 as i forgot the switch to stable branch before starting... well time will tell if the RC is has bugs
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No progress with the printer, had other errands to do whole day, but i forked the Marlin github repo and pushed my Cube2 config there: https://github.com/spegelius/Marlin. Use branch Cube2_RC. It's based on 1.1.0_RC6 as i forgot the switch to stable branch before starting... well time will tell if the RC is has bugs
Thanks spegelius
Yeah I just keep hitting walls, when I first started this project, I thought just have to wire it up and install the custom firmware, and would be good to go.. I going to try your config.. I'll post back, if any luck..
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Thanks spegelius
Yeah I just keep hitting walls, when I first started this project, I thought just have to wire it up and install the custom firmware, and would be good to go.. I going to try your config.. I'll post back, if any luck..
[/quote]
I uploaded last night, but can't get my full graphic smart controller lcd, to work with the firmware.. I tried #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER
and #include <U8glib.h>
The lcd shows the menu, but I can control anything, the knob on the lcd, if i press, or turn it, it wont control through the menu..
Hey spegelius, do you know, if you can take a configuration h, file from one marlin firmware, and install it to a different marlin firmware??
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I suspect that using Configuration.h from different version of Marlin probably wont work. But that depends on how much changes those versions have... Using the Verify function in the Arduino IDE should show if it's compatible, but that won't tell you if all needed values are there...
I got mine printing :). I used the Set offsets in Prepare-screen after manually moving the Z to proper position and now it prints on proper level. I used Pronterface to control the printer and sliced with Slic3r for now. Need to set up Simplify3d later.
I also changed the bed 0,0,0 coordinate from center of the bed to the default corner. Shouldn't matter as long as you configure the slicer sw to know where the origin is. If it's at the center, you need to set the 0-pos offset accordinly (70mm in the case of Cube).
Tuning the extrusion steps was relatively simple: detach bowden tube from the nozzle, ask to extrude 100mm of filament and the measure the actual length. In my case, with MK8 bolt, i needed to change default 80 to 147 and now it outputs almost exactly 100mm when asked.
I'll post the start and end g-codes i used this evening.
I had few problems after the first succesfull print:
- it seems that either Pronterface or Marlin has a bug: if you start Pronterface, use the manual movement controls to move Z and then start a print, Z always overshoots by ~1mm. So what you need to do is to start Pronterface, load the file and start printing right awa, don't touch the controls. I'm going to be printing from sdcard after i get things tuned so this is not a big bug, but caused some fustration yesterday :D
- my laptop's battery died during the second print and the printer was just the waiting for commands. That's what you get for buying a gaming laptop ;).
General impression about the printer now: fast, fluid, more precise, less noise, mostly easier to use, more verstatile. As Dan said at page 1, don't think, just do it :). Best upgrade to this printer so far and i have done quite a lot of them.
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Start g-code:
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
G28 ;move to endstops
G1 Z15.0 F2500 ;move the hotend to 15mm
;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
;G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 X0 Y0 Z0.4 F1000 ;move Z close
G1 X50 Y0 Z0.1 F1000 ;move 50mm to right and Z closer
End g-code
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
;M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle
to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F2000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
so the head is out of the way
G28 Z0 ;home Z
G90 ;absolute positioning
Also updated configuration in github. Needed to enabled sdcard, now it's printing from it
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Start g-code:
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
G28 ;move to endstops
G1 Z15.0 F2500 ;move the hotend to 15mm
;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
;G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 X0 Y0 Z0.4 F1000 ;move Z close
G1 X50 Y0 Z0.1 F1000 ;move 50mm to right and Z closer
End g-code
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
;M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle
to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F2000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
so the head is out of the way
G28 Z0 ;home Z
G90 ;absolute positioning
Also updated configuration in github. Needed to enabled sdcard, now it's printing from it
Spegelius Thanks so much for this..
Are you using Ramps 1.4 with the A4988, ? also what Lcd panel are you using?? I actually put your values from the config h, into the marlin i'm using.. I couldn't get my Reprap smart controller to work with the RC.. If you are using the A4988 drivers, did you dial down the voltage? just wondering..
I just getting things to work out, thank to you past reply, I calibrated my extruder, though x axis seem to move slow, and the z axis is super fast..
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Yes, it's RAMPS1.4 and A4988 drivers. I have tuned the vrefs to ~0.25V for X, Y and Z. For E i'm using ~0.94V, it was skipping steps with lower vrefs and by calculation this should feed the max amps the stepper can take (not a Cube stepper, mind you).
For the extruder steps, i set it to 147 instead of 80, can't remember the name of the variable (STEPS_PER_UNIT perhaps?)
The controller i'm using is http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller. If you have different controller, you need to comment out #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER from the config and uncomment proper line for your LCD/controller.
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Yes, it's RAMPS1.4 and A4988 drivers. I have tuned the vrefs to ~0.25V for X, Y and Z. For E i'm using ~0.94V, it was skipping steps with lower vrefs and by calculation this should feed the max amps the stepper can take (not a Cube stepper, mind you).
For the extruder steps, i set it to 147 instead of 80, can't remember the name of the variable (STEPS_PER_UNIT perhaps?)
The controller i'm using is http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller. If you have different controller, you need to comment out #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER from the config and uncomment proper line for your LCD/controller.
Thanks spegelius, I got my ramps to work with your marlin Rc.. But I have to ask you something, when I try to move my X axis to the Left going towards the end stop, Pronterface says endstops hit: X:2.99 The X axis will move to Right no problem, but when I try to move it back to the endstop, it wont let me, is this normal?
Also when I hit Y+ the bed moves forward, but when I try Y- the bed wont go back to the endstop, is this normal??
Can you tell me does the X,axis control the extruder from left to right?, and the Y controls the print bed going forward and back?, is this right?
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Thanks spegelius, I got my ramps to work with your marlin Rc.. But I have to ask you something, when I try to move my X axis to the Left going towards the end stop, Pronterface says endstops hit: X:2.99 The X axis will move to Right no problem, but when I try to move it back to the endstop, it wont let me, is this normal?
Also when I hit Y+ the bed moves forward, but when I try Y- the bed wont go back to the endstop, is this normal??
Can you tell me does the X,axis control the extruder from left to right?, and the Y controls the print bed going forward and back?, is this right?
Yes, X is left to right and Y is forward and back.
What is your X and Y position after homing them? When i had bed 0,0,0 position set to bed center (BED_CENTER_AT_0_0), X and Y where showing -71 on the LCD screen. Now that i've commented out BED_CENTER_AT_0_0, X and Y are 0 after homing.
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Thanks spegelius, I got my ramps to work with your marlin Rc.. But I have to ask you something, when I try to move my X axis to the Left going towards the end stop, Pronterface says endstops hit: X:2.99 The X axis will move to Right no problem, but when I try to move it back to the endstop, it wont let me, is this normal?
Also when I hit Y+ the bed moves forward, but when I try Y- the bed wont go back to the endstop, is this normal??
Can you tell me does the X,axis control the extruder from left to right?, and the Y controls the print bed going forward and back?, is this right?
Yes, X is left to right and Y is forward and back.
What is your X and Y position after homing them? When i had bed 0,0,0 position set to bed center (BED_CENTER_AT_0_0), X and Y where showing -71 on the LCD screen. Now that i've commented out BED_CENTER_AT_0_0, X and Y are 0 after homing.
My configuration are the same as in the marlin Rc you uploaded? I figured you and I have the same printer, so there all configuration h setting would be all calibrated, but when I try to make my Extruder go left from the middle, the software says that my endstop is being triggered I guess, because it wont let me go left at all. also my Y axis the print bed will move forward but wont go let me move it back towards the endstop.. any idea what I am doing wrong?
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Did you pull the latest version of the configuration? I made a new commit that moves the origin to the corner, which should allow you to move it freely
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Did you pull the latest version of the configuration? I made a new commit that moves the origin to the corner, which should allow you to move it freely
No I didn't upload the latest verison, I thought the only change was the SD card support, I will upload and let you know, a little later.. Thanks for all your help.
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Did you pull the latest version of the configuration? I made a new commit that moves the origin to the corner, which should allow you to move it freely
No I didn't upload the latest verison, I thought the only change was the SD card support, I will upload and let you know, a little later.. Thanks for all your help.
I just tried it, I don't understand, why my x, y, z, axis are only going in one direction, if I try the other direction, pronterface says endstop hit.. I also tried to raise my Z axis up 10mm and it went so fast all the way to the top, and kept trying to go.. You are saying you are getting good prints with these setting??
I don't understand what im doing, wrong..
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I just tried it, I don't understand, why my x, y, z, axis are only going in one direction, if I try the other direction, pronterface says endstop hit.. I also tried to raise my Z axis up 10mm and it went so fast all the way to the top, and kept trying to go.. You are saying you are getting good prints with these setting??
I don't understand what im doing, wrong..
Hmm it seems to me that your endstops aren't wired correctly. I put them to the tip pins shown in here: http://www.reprap.org/mediawiki/images/0/06/RAMPS_dossier.pdf; xmin, ymin and zmax.
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Hmm it seems to me that your endstops aren't wired correctly. I put them to the tip pins shown in here: http://www.reprap.org/mediawiki/images/0/06/RAMPS_dossier.pdf; xmin, ymin and zmax.
[/quote]
Your right, I had my end stop x-min y-min z-min, Will this stop my z axis from raising the print bed 100mph? z axis is super fast, almost broke my bed. I took the bed off for now, until I get this right..
I'm sorry to be asking you so many questions, I am also googling a lot of info as well.
Thank you again
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Your right, I had my end stop x-min y-min z-min, Will this stop my z axis from raising the print bed 100mph? z axis is super fast, almost broke my bed. I took the bed off for now, until I get this right..
I'm sorry to be asking you so many questions, I am also googling a lot of info as well.
Thank you again
No problem, i'll answer the best i can.
I'm not sure if changing the z endstop fixes that, but shouldn't hurt to try it? Seems strange to me that z is moving so fast. On myp rinter, it's really slow when moving in Pronterface or in LCD controller. What is your speed setting in Pronterface?
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No problem, i'll answer the best i can.
I'm not sure if changing the z endstop fixes that, but shouldn't hurt to try it? Seems strange to me that z is moving so fast. On myp rinter, it's really slow when moving in Pronterface or in LCD controller. What is your speed setting in Pronterface?
[/quote]
Thanks again.
Pronterface has speed settings? where would I find them?, I thought maybe it was the Step per mm, in the config h file?
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The speed settings for X,Y and Z are at the top of the screen, at least on my Pronterface version (don't remember what).
The steps per unit setting tunes how much the stepper has to step the reach certain length, not how fast. The speed setting tells the stepper how fast to step. Different settings.
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Hey spegelius, I found the speed setting. Thanks
On the z axis, we have it as Z max, are we supposed to have reversed the motors direction? I just notice now from Dan picture, the black and green wires are reversed, i didn't see that and assumed, all motors wired the same.. Is this right?
Thanks again.
[/quote]
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I don't remember what i had to reverse, just try it, doesn't hurt.
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(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Florencio_Santos/th_KVID0139%20convert-video-online.com_zpstpp60r9z.mp4) (http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Florencio_Santos/KVID0139%20convert-video-online.com_zpstpp60r9z.mp4)
Got My Franked Up Cube, going, had to make a print bed, original bed fell off table.. printed 10mm calibration cube, everything looks good.. I like to have it print in the middle of the bed, anyone know how I can do this??
Thanks again Dan & Spegelius
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Great! To get the print to the middle, the point of origin (x=0,y=0) needs to be same in Marlin and the slicer you are using. If you use same Marlin config as i do, the origin is in bottom left (home) position. Just confiure the slicing sw to have origin at 0,0.
I'm thinking about changing the origin to the center of the plate because setting z-gap is harder when the nozzle is at the corner. Not a big problem, it's fine now so haven't done anything yet...
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I've been tuning Marlin configuration, latest changes are in github.
I enabled Babysteps which is an option during printing where it's possible to do minor adjustments to Z, Y and Z axes.
I also enabled manual mesh bed leveling, but haven't used it yet because it doesn't understand that in Cube the bed should be rised near the nozzle, the bed is left at bottom and it's hard to measure the distance. Anyway the option seems to be similar to Cube's leveling option, but apparently Marlin uses the leveling values during print for leveling, like with autolevel feature.
I also ran PID autotune, which gave me new PID values and now hotend temps seem to be bit more stable.
One of the things i tried was increasing the acceleration values, but it seems that Cube is real bad at that. In one of the guides, a starting value of 3000 was suggested, but at least my Cube cannot do more than 500, Y axis skips steps (a lot) at some point, which ruins the print as Y coords move several cm...
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After looking through all 7 pages I haven't seen a complete list of components considering the different builds people have been using. Before I finalize my list and purchases I was hope to get some questions answered to help with my build. I already have a multimeter and a soldering iron hence why they aren't on the list but please feel free to make suggestions of things I have forgotten that you deem important.
I want to say thanks in advance for any and all help offered during this learning process.
Component Related Questions
- Should I get getting a 12v power supply or stick with the original power supply?
- Do I need separate power supplies for electronics and for the fans?
- How many fans do I need and what should they be focused on cooling?
- How have people over come the 20v limitation of the Mega? and is it still a relevant issue?
- Is it more cost effective to use a converter over another power supply?
- Should I upgrade the stepper drivers? If yes, to what?
Other Questions
- I plan on get a hotend that works with more exotic filaments. Will this effect the power supply I purchase?
- Does adding a heated platform effect my power supply?
- What software do you use with you frakenCube and why? Paid or Free?
- What are the settings you recommend for the printer?
- Which custom firmware is currently being recommended?
- @Spegelius, Did you use the cube to print with Filaflex or another printer? If Cube, what was your settings?
My Draft Theoretical BOM List
- 1x Mega 2560 Adruino Board
- 4x Stepper Drivers A4988
- 1x RAMPS 1.4
- 1x Pack of 100 Dupont 2.55mm Wire Terminals
- 1x Pack of 4 pin Dupont Termal Housing (You can cut these in half if you need to make 2 pin housings)
- 1x v6 HotEnd http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Bowden (http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Bowden)
- 1x AirTrippers Bowden Extruder (Any version - this is printable and will require a Nema 17 Motor. Make sure you print it BEFORE dismantling your Cube)
- 1x Nema 17 high current Motor. There are different types - get one that has high current - this is VERY important. I got mine from Josh at Cultivate 3d in Australia
- 1x Dupont Crimper (Not necessary, but makes the job much easier)
- 1x 12v Power Supply [I'm not sure if this is what I want to use]
- Zip ties
-
After looking through all 7 pages I haven't seen a complete list of components considering the different builds people have been using. Before I finalize my list and purchases I was hope to get some questions answered to help with my build. I already have a multimeter and a soldering iron hence why they aren't on the list but please feel free to make suggestions of things I have forgotten that you deem important.
I want to say thanks in advance for any and all help offered during this learning process.
Component Related Questions
- Should I get getting a 12v power supply or stick with the original power supply?
- Do I need separate power supplies for electronics and for the fans?
- How many fans do I need and what should they be focused on cooling?
- How have people over come the 20v limitation of the Mega? and is it still a relevant issue?
- Is it more cost effective to use a converter over another power supply?
- Should I upgrade the stepper drivers? If yes, to what?
- I'm using 12V, simply because i have few old ATX PSUs around that work ok and other components are generally meant for 12V. RAMPS can also control when the PSU is on, although i haven't used that feature yet. Probably in future
- I don't. But i'm using only one of Cube's original fans and that's 12V fan (the one blowing to the hotend, it has somekind of voltage regulator which I removed). You can use 24V fans @12V, they'll just run slower
- I have 3 at the moment: one for RAMPS, one for hotend and one attached to the cooling duct i printed, to help with printing PLA
- Don't think so, but not relevant to me as i'm using 12V anyways
- Well buck converter costs less than 10 euro, ordered from ebay so yes if it can supply the power needed.
- You mean upgrade A4988 to something like DRV8825? Don't know, apparently DRV8825 has more microsteps or something so maybe better accuracy... haven't tried them, though
Other Questions
- I plan on get a hotend that works with more exotic filaments. Will this effect the power supply I purchase?
- Does adding a heated platform effect my power supply?
- What software do you use with you frakenCube and why? Paid or Free?
- What are the settings you recommend for the printer?
- Which custom firmware is currently being recommended?
- @Spegelius, Did you use the cube to print with Filaflex or another printer? If Cube, what was your settings?
- Usually no, but i guess this depends on the heating element on the hotend... I think they usually are similar regards the power requirements
- Yes, you need ~10-20 amps more power, depending on the heating element. I ordered this few days ago: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271874692313 and now i need aluminum plate. That 180W means it'll draw 15A from 12V so PSU needs to be able to provide that + hotend amps (3-5 I think)
- Simplify3D (paid), monstly because of the support configurability. Slic3r works fine too, but as you can't manually control supports or support parameters, some models don't work well with it. Also Simplify3D supports are easier to remove IMO
- Hmm that's a wide question. I'll post my Simplify3D settings later in more detail
- I'm using Marlin and it's working fine. Also that's the only firmware i've tried, Repetier would be interesting alternative to try at some point
- Yes, Cube, when it was more in it's original form. Very slow (10mm/s max speed) but it worked. I haven't had time to try with current setup, but the Airtrippers extruder will be a problem with flexibles and i'm going to print different extruder
My Draft Theoretical BOM List
- 1x Mega 2560 Adruino Board
- 4x Stepper Drivers A4988
- 1x RAMPS 1.4
- 1x Pack of 100 Dupont 2.55mm Wire Terminals
- 1x Pack of 4 pin Dupont Termal Housing (You can cut these in half if you need to make 2 pin housings)
- 1x v6 HotEnd http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Bowden (http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Bowden)
- 1x AirTrippers Bowden Extruder (Any version - this is printable and will require a Nema 17 Motor. Make sure you print it BEFORE dismantling your Cube)
- 1x Nema 17 high current Motor. There are different types - get one that has high current - this is VERY important. I got mine from Josh at Cultivate 3d in Australia
- 1x Dupont Crimper (Not necessary, but makes the job much easier)
- 1x 12v Power Supply [I'm not sure if this is what I want to use]
- Zip ties
Good list, but i'd change these:
- with 12V supply some 12V fans might be needed
- Airtrippers extruder is only one option, thingiverse has many good extruders even for flexible materials. Like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:711401
- E3D V6 hotend (or any other hotend) replacing Cube's own will need some kind of attachment to the X arm, Dan's hackish way probably won't work with E3D V6 or J-HEAD that i'm using. I have one printable version that i've been using with JHead for months now, but i'm going to upgrade it to support E3D too sometime.
- some 4mm bowden tube in case the hotend doesn't have it in the package
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Hey everyone
Anyone have a copy of firmware, that works with ramps 1.4 with the reprap smart discount lcd? with the configuration h. already configued, for the frankedCube?
Please, and Thanks
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@spegelius, I don't know much about power supplies other than voltage. What else should I be looking for to make sure that it will able to run my hotend and an additionally heated bed?
After you help me figure out which power supply I need from ebay, I'll be adding it to my order of terminal crimps and ramps board.
I'm hoping to start on this project before the end of the month depending on when everything gets here from China.
Anything else you can thing of that I might need so everything can arrive on time? Anything I can to prepare while I'm waiting for the parts to come.
Thanks again for all you help. If we can get this up and running I will be so happy. Next I'll just have to get better at 3D Modeling.
So Excited to make this happen.
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@spegelius, I don't know much about power supplies other than voltage. What else should I be looking for to make sure that it will able to run my hotend and an additionally heated bed?
After you help me figure out which power supply I need from ebay, I'll be adding it to my order of terminal crimps and ramps board.
I'm hoping to start on this project before the end of the month depending on when everything gets here from China.
Anything else you can thing of that I might need so everything can arrive on time? Anything I can to prepare while I'm waiting for the parts to come.
Thanks again for all you help. If we can get this up and running I will be so happy. Next I'll just have to get better at 3D Modeling.
So Excited to make this happen.
If you don't have ATX power supply to use, something like this would be a good choice: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-5-12-24V-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-for-LED-Strip-3D-Printer-/111544566393?var=&hash=item19f8930279:m:mgXbKNkedYP0vXZS6rgAhtw. Select at least 200W model if you are going to be using heated bed. If not, 100W or 150W should do fine. Do a search for '12V power supply' in Amazon or Ebay, there's lot's of options for brands. Needles to say, the cheaper ones might not be as robust as the more expensive (better) brands.
I don't have any experience of that type of power supply, i've used ATX type because i have some old ones that I put to use. But i've seen them being used in 3D printers and basically any 12V power supply will do as long as it outputs enough power.
Also with ATX power supply there's the option of turning the power supply on and off in Marlin, but I haven't used that system yet.
For other bits on bobs: I suggest ordering a RepRapDiscount Full LCD controller with the RAMPS. Has SD card slot so printer can be used without PC. Shouldn't cost much, i think i got a RAMPS+Full LCD less than 50eur last time i ordered from Amazon...
Other stuff: I have a good set of assorted tools that I use when fixing stuff etc. so it's hard to say exactly what to buy. But generally if you have hw store nearby and find that you need some tool, then it won't be a problem.
If you can print parts now, wouldn't hurt printing them beforehand. These are what i've printed (not necessarily for Cube, i've got other printer projects going on):
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:861360
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1223730
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:737701
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6599
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:87250
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:217253
There's also some parts i've designed myself, i'll post them someday...
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Greetings Everyone!
You all have been extremely helpful in getting my frankencube setup from a cube 2nd gen. I am trying to setup a direct drive for the extruder. I am currently using a J head hot end direct feed (https://www.amazon.com/3D-CAM-Printer-Filament-Extruder/dp/B010MZ8RKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477161693&sr=8-1&keywords=hotend)
Any tips on existing direct drives extruder mounts on thingiverse that I could print on my other 3D printer?
Thanks for any tips and for all the help you have provided already! ;D
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Greetings Everyone!
You all have been extremely helpful in getting my frankencube setup from a cube 2nd gen. I am trying to setup a direct drive for the extruder. I am currently using a J head hot end direct feed (https://www.amazon.com/3D-CAM-Printer-Filament-Extruder/dp/B010MZ8RKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477161693&sr=8-1&keywords=hotend)
Any tips on existing direct drives extruder mounts on thingiverse that I could print on my other 3D printer?
Thanks for any tips and for all the help you have provided already! ;D
I dont think there's any direct drive extruders that would fit Cube 2 directly. Cube 2 has it's own kind of X-arm that's probably not meant to adhere to any existing design. So the only option is to pick a extruder design and modify it to fit Cube. Or design one yourself :).
I designed this E3Dv6 mount for Cube 2, but it's bowden: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1886522. Currently it attaches to the metal arm that is attached to the rail. I've been thinking that the metal arm could be removed if something bigger is needed. But current setup works fine and I'm in no need for direct drive extruder, so not going to be changing things any time soon.
For extruder i use this: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:242182. Very reliable so far.
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Hi all!
Glad to see the community on Cubes is still alive.
I've set up a wiki specifically for the Cube 3 for others to contribute with hacks like this.
Please check it out at cube3.print3dforum.com
Thanks!
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Here is a video with the details!
https://youtu.be/gw-WScnYE9M
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i need help i transform a cube 2nd generation in afrankencube. but my z dont mouve upto star
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I Frankencubed mine as well, with excelent results. I used a dremmel to cut off the portion of the original board with the power/usb/fuse and used it in place to keep things looking nice. I did the same with the portion that had the USB port, as both had nice screw mounts to utilize for this.
I used every stock part, including extruder/hot-end, only replacing the control board with an MKS-BASE 1.0.
The fans had 12v regulators on them already, so running on the original 24v power supply was not a problem. Just make sure you observe and/or test the wires prior to powering them, or you'll blow up the regulators with reverse voltage. (I'll need to replace my cooling fan regulator because I did this.)
I set the stepper drivers with a multimeter on ground, and while touching the positive lead to the driver adjustment screw, I set them all to 2v (I think, I used an analogue multimeter, and I'm not sure if I was reading the scale properly), this made the motors run much quieter, and they don't get too hot.
I used Z-MAX since the limit switch is at the bottom, but MIN plug for both X and Y.
I'm currently using up the remainder of the spool of 1.6mm green it came with, but it will accept 1.75mm filament as well, you just have to remember to change the setting in your slicer.
The original screen is disabled currently and in place only for asthetics, but I plan on getting the 2.8 inch MKS-TFT and possibly the WiFi module, unless I find room for an Octo-Pi. So far I enjoy that it still looks so clean.
Below you'll find my Marlin v1.1.0 RC8 Configuration.h, Slic3r config export, and CuraEngine config export. I've done a couple test prints with slicer, and a 'parts fit' test with cura, and the parts slid together whith little to no effort.
Edits for spelling and info aditions. Photos to come.
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Congrats on jail breaking and opensourcing the cubex printers. I'm a disappointed owner of a stock cubex duo and am beginning the journey of converting my printer. I was wondering if anyone has documented the items needed and steps to perform to get the conversion done. I would greatly appreciate any documentation that exists or any help for that matter.
Thanks all for any advice and assistance, I haven't had a chance to read the entire thread so if I've missed what I'm looking for, please just let me know and I'll go back and find it.
Regards,
Charles
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For those interested, I finished making and replacing the stock extruder on my cube with an E3D V6.
All in all I can max out Z at 133, so I lost a few mm, but it works great.
[attachimg=1]
Check it out here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2839509
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After some testing a realised a few mistakes in my design and promptly fixed it.
Here is a new version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2839509
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