i also get the clicking noise whenever i try to print and it goes away if i push down on the filament too
That clicking noise is caused a) by the toothed feeder gear on the extruder motor shaft slipping or b)from the extruder motor "skipping a step"
The way you can tell is; if the sound is a loud clicking, thud like noise, occurring every 1 second (approx) or more, it's likely the skipping steps, if it's a more regular ticking noise, likely the gear slipping.
To fix the gear slipping, firstly ensure you're using the filament with an average diameter of 1.75mm. If this varies slightly, it shouldn't create an issue. Firstly clean out all plastic from the hotend. Turn off your cube, this will release the extruder stepper motor. Then with fresh filament pushed between the pulley and toothed gear, Loosen the bolt which holds the opposing pressurizing pulley in place. While applying firm pressure in the direction of the toothed gear, tighten the bolt ( you may need extra hands).
Next, With an empty hotend, ie with all the existing plastic cleared from it (and all remaining plastic cleaned out of it) you should be able to easily, but with some resistance, pass filament through the pulleys into the hot ends entry tube. As you do, make sure the toothed gear and motor is rotating as you insert and remove the filament. The toothed gear should not slip during this process, rather it should rotate in perfect sync with the amount of filament you are passing through it.
If the problem is related to skipping steps, the solution won't necessarily be so easy, and may be the result of a number of factors.
A) as mentioned before, the filament may be way too thick..(2mm filament is too thick IMO)
B)you may need to adjust the amperage going to the extruder motor. Increasing the amps will give the motor higher tolerance to jammed filament or oversized filament. To do this you need to open the base of your unit by removing all socket screws from the underside of the unit, exposing the circuit board which runs this puppy. On it you will notice 4 (logically and from memory) pots (potentiometers). Each pot adjusts power supply to each of the 4 motors which drive the cube. One for each axis x y and z, the other for the extruder. Now the trouble for you is I've never had to adjust mine, so I can't say which one is which -that you will need to figure out. Here's how I would do it: remove the connector at the back of the extruder motor. Use a multimeter set to measure resistance or continuity- preferably with a beeper. Jam one end of the mm into one of the pins on the connector, take note of the wire colors leading from the connector and probe every wire on the main board which appears in sets of corresponding colors (there may be multiples) listen for the beep, then adjust the pot which is closest to the connector. Youre looking for a beep or massive drop in resistance.
Next, (I've not tested this, but it should work). Turn on your cube. With your mm set to measure dc voltage (max 20v range) Put the black pole of your mm onto a common earth (any screw hole on the motherboard will do). Place the positive end of your mm, on the feet of the pot you're going to adjust. Now ask an assistant to very slowly rotate the pot (pref with a ceramic or plastic screwdriver - I very carefully use a metal one) in a clockwise direction. You should notice the voltage increase as you rotate the pot. The general consensus is to set this to .4v, but take note of the starting value just in case you want to go back to square one. If your printer is jamming increase this value, but no higher than what is necessary to get the filament to reliably extrude. Too high and the motor will run hot, eventually it will skip from overheating or shut down all together. If that happens, adjust accordingly and try to find the best balance of heat vs reliable extrusion.
Pain in the arse is that every time you test this, you have to put the damn thing back together to some degree. Use the load filament option to do this test without having to start a print and reassemble the cube completely.
IMO, (with the cube) if you have to adjust this knob beyond .4v, something is jamming your hotend OR you filament is thicker than 1.75 avg. All printers will jam if you try force more filament through the hotend than what the print speed and hotend specs will allow. As with the cube you can't adjust heat and speed, your only option is to increase power to the skipping motor, reduce filament diameter and clean your hotend.
Another test I have recently discovered which I think is more accurate is to place on pole of the mm on the feet of your pot, the other jammed in any of the 4 motor wire pins. ( try to figure out which of the feet is output voltage- adjusting the pot with with you mm probe on the wrong side of the pot should show no change). Again check the staring value and increase / decrease accordingly.
Be aware, I cant test this yet as my printer is occupied for the next 3-5 days. If you're not adventurous enough to try this yourself, I'll try do do so and post more accurate instructions when I get a chance.