Author Topic: Crap hack. Bulk filament  (Read 24316 times)

Dan

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #30 on: November 12, 2014, 03:34:42 pm »
I thought the chip determines the type of filament (ABS vs PLA), color and amount left. So you are suggesting that the color makes the difference in melting point?

No, but colour can certainly make a difference to print quality.  I doubt the chip has any setting that respond to colour. It definitely does increase the hotend temperature for ABS. 
Thanks again for the kind words.

Leo_Aguiar

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #31 on: November 13, 2014, 01:57:25 pm »
Any updates on running this on the 2.08 firmware and the adjusting the printer head for thicker filaments?

Dan

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #32 on: November 14, 2014, 05:48:01 am »
Not on the current firmware.  Thicker filament is just not going to happen without replacing the electronics with a mega2560 and ramps 1.4 board.  (Unless it's possible to load alternative firmware onto the current electronics). I'll post an instructional some time.  I really hate the cube firmware... Way too much of a one size fits all approach.  Marlin firmware is allows for so much more useful flexibility.   For the record, I used my cube to print parts for a Classic Rostock printer which I then pulled apart to print a gigantic 2m tall custom rostock which is still under construction.   

bobobobicsek

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #33 on: November 14, 2014, 08:49:33 pm »
Are you running 2.07 currently?  Is that the last firmware  that can handle thicker filament?
Thanks.
Best
Bob

Dan

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #34 on: November 14, 2014, 11:31:26 pm »
No, Im running 2.08 - By thicker filament, Im assuming you mean 1.75 as apposed to 1.70?  Technically, no firmware from 3D Sytems for this unit will handle thicker filament terribly well.  But.. replace the logic board with an arduino, wire up the motors, thermister, hotend etc and im very sure this would improve the functionality of the unit.  I promise its next on my to do list. -Ill post some photos when I do.  Pretty certainly ill be changing this hotend when I do too.   
Dan

bobobobicsek

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #35 on: November 15, 2014, 09:23:42 am »
Thank you Dan!!
Same here, running 2.08... and can't stand the standard slicer / app that 3d systems provided with the cube 3D.
I am excited to see your soon future upgrades. I assumes with new board you will be able to use custom slicers.
Best,
Bob

storm4077

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #36 on: November 15, 2014, 12:26:39 pm »
ive been trying to get bulk filament working for ages now. its just not feeding properly because i think its too thick. I tried adjusting the bolt on the print head and it did nothing. Help?

storm4077

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #37 on: November 15, 2014, 12:38:45 pm »
Also heres a bit more information. i find that when i push pown on the fillament, it starts to extrude. But I dont want to do that everytime im printing something

storm4077

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #38 on: November 15, 2014, 04:00:30 pm »
i also get the clicking noise whenever i try to print and it goes away if i push down on the filament too

Dan

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #39 on: November 17, 2014, 05:01:29 am »
Storm,   Can you please measure the diameter of the filament you're using?

Does it print for a minute or two by itself? Or not at all?

Have you tried cleaning the hotend by first "changing the filament" (without actually doing so), then when the machine asks for the new filament, cleaning the hotend by pushing the metal rod or suitable sized wire through the hotend?


Dan

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #40 on: November 17, 2014, 06:04:37 am »
i also get the clicking noise whenever i try to print and it goes away if i push down on the filament too

That clicking noise is caused a) by the toothed feeder gear on the extruder motor shaft slipping or b)from the extruder motor "skipping a step"

The way you can tell is; if the sound is a loud clicking, thud like noise, occurring every 1 second (approx) or more, it's likely the skipping steps, if it's a more regular ticking noise, likely the gear slipping. 

To fix the gear slipping, firstly ensure you're using the filament with an average diameter of 1.75mm.  If this varies slightly, it shouldn't create an issue.  Firstly clean out all plastic from the hotend. Turn off your cube, this will release the extruder stepper motor. Then with fresh filament pushed between the pulley and toothed gear, Loosen the bolt which holds the opposing pressurizing pulley in place. While applying firm pressure in the direction of the toothed gear, tighten the bolt ( you may need extra hands). 
Next, With an empty hotend, ie with all the existing plastic cleared from it (and all remaining plastic cleaned out of it) you should be able to easily, but with some resistance, pass filament through the pulleys into the hot ends entry tube.  As you do, make sure the toothed gear and motor is rotating as you insert and remove the filament.  The toothed gear should not slip during this process, rather it should rotate in perfect sync with the amount of filament you are passing through it.

If the problem is related to skipping steps, the solution won't necessarily be so easy, and may be the result of a number of factors. 

A) as mentioned before, the filament may be way too thick..(2mm filament is too thick IMO)
B)you may need to adjust the amperage going to the extruder motor.  Increasing the amps will give the motor higher tolerance to jammed filament or oversized filament.  To do this you need to open the base of your unit by removing all socket screws from the underside of the unit, exposing the circuit board which runs this puppy.  On it you will notice 4 (logically and from memory) pots (potentiometers).  Each pot adjusts power supply to each of the 4 motors which drive the cube.  One for each axis x y and z,  the other for the extruder.  Now the trouble for you is I've never had to adjust mine, so I can't say which one is which -that you will need to figure out.  Here's how I would do it:  remove the connector at the back of the extruder motor.  Use a multimeter set to measure resistance or continuity- preferably with a beeper.  Jam one end of the mm into one of the pins on the connector, take note of the wire colors leading from the connector and probe every wire on the main board which appears in sets of corresponding colors (there may be multiples) listen for the beep, then adjust the pot which is closest to the connector.  Youre looking for a beep or massive drop in resistance.   

Next, (I've not tested this, but it should work).  Turn on your cube. With your mm set to measure dc voltage (max 20v range) Put the black pole of your mm onto a common earth (any screw hole on the motherboard will do).  Place the positive end of your mm, on the feet of the pot you're going to adjust. Now ask an assistant to very slowly rotate the pot (pref with a ceramic or plastic screwdriver - I very carefully use a metal one) in a clockwise direction.  You should notice the voltage increase as you rotate the pot. The general consensus is to set this to .4v, but take note of the starting value just in case you want to go back to square one. If your printer is jamming increase this value, but no higher than what is necessary to get the filament to reliably extrude. Too high and the motor will run hot, eventually it will skip from overheating or shut down all together.  If that happens, adjust accordingly and try to find the best balance of heat vs reliable extrusion.

Pain in the arse is that every time you test this, you have to put the damn thing back together to some degree.  Use the load filament option to do this test without having to start a print and reassemble the cube completely.

IMO, (with the cube) if you have to adjust this knob beyond .4v, something is jamming your hotend OR you filament is thicker than 1.75 avg.  All printers will jam if you try force more filament through the hotend than what the print speed and hotend specs will allow.  As with the cube you can't adjust heat and speed, your only option is to increase power to the skipping motor, reduce filament diameter and clean your hotend.

Another test I have recently discovered which I think is more accurate is to place on pole of the mm on the feet of your pot, the other jammed in any of the 4 motor wire pins.  ( try to figure out which of the feet is output voltage- adjusting the pot with with you mm probe on the wrong side of the pot should show no change).  Again check the staring value and increase / decrease accordingly.

Be aware, I cant test this yet as my printer is occupied for the next 3-5 days.  If you're not adventurous enough to try this yourself, I'll try do do so and post more accurate instructions when I get a chance. 

Dan
« Last Edit: November 17, 2014, 06:37:53 am by Dan »

Dan

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #41 on: November 17, 2014, 06:44:29 am »
Thank you Dan!!
Same here, running 2.08... and can't stand the standard slicer / app that 3d systems provided with the cube 3D.
I am excited to see your soon future upgrades. I assumes with new board you will be able to use custom slicers.
Best,
Bob
Hey, I'm not reinventing the wheel, just using the cubes hardware with a a mega 2560 loaded with marlin.  Sure slic3r is the weapon of choice.  I just started a 19hr print today, 2 large identical objects squeezed onto the same plate.  Watching the stupid way it jumps from one end of the plate to the other without finishing the layer on the side of the plate it's on is ridiculous and has no doubt added about 10hrs to the print.  Clap clap 3d systems.  Only 5 or so more prints before I gleefully rip the guts out of this baby and turn it into a really good printer.

bobobobicsek

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #42 on: November 17, 2014, 06:57:43 am »
That is a nice arduino board.  Very nice ☺.  I weren't in a middle of a project would love do some real tinkering also.  Good luck with the remaining 5 prints and the following surgery on poor old cube

merva

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #43 on: November 18, 2014, 05:32:39 am »
Dear Dan,

Thank you so much,

It's working !! (ver 2.08)

i can't  see how much time is left but this is nothing compaired to the

BIG MONEY SAVING  YOU GAVE US !!!!!

Thank you again

daniel

Dan

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Re: Crap hack. Bulk filament
« Reply #44 on: November 19, 2014, 02:00:05 am »
No problems, great to hear it works for you too.  If you return to the print window during the print by press the cancel (x) button, you can get the remaining print time. You do have to check quickly though and return to the cancel print confirmation screen before the cube realizes the cartridge is removed.  You should check my post about wiring a button onto the chip as eventually all that inserting and removing of cartridges will ruin the metal contacts in the bottom of the filament bay.

Dan